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So I notice a vibration at idle I'm sure is not normal. Has anyone here had an issue with a coil or should I only look at motor mounts, transmission mounts? I know these are wear items on many Acura's.
I also recently had the timing belt, water pump, and related parts replaced. I wish I could remember if this vibration was so pronounced before.
This vehicle has about 90,000 miles.
That is correct. If feed it a bit of gas it smooths out. I guess I would have to start it to see exactly what the idle is! Trying not to take it out into the salt bath here. Can someone tell me or post a pic/video of their tach? Also, is this idle user adjustable at all?
it is adjustable but on my 2000 I found the idle air control motor ports were dirty I eventually ended up replacing the motor a nd cleaning out all the ports to correct the problem
Did you end up figuring out the problem? I have the same issue. It's also intermittent so of course everytime I take it into the shop you can't hear it.
so i notice a vibration at idle i'm sure is not normal. Has anyone here had an issue with a coil or should i only look at motor mounts, transmission mounts? I know these are wear items on many acura's.
I also recently had the timing belt, water pump, and related parts replaced. I wish i could remember if this vibration was so pronounced before.
This vehicle has about 90,000 miles.
i had similar situation i hv a 2002 3.5 rl...totally sounds like you jus need a tune up, change all the plugs ...use iridium plugs tho...probably #5 plug having the issue
i had similar situation i hv a 2002 3.5 rl...totally sounds like you jus need a tune up, change all the plugs ...use iridium plugs tho...probably #5 plug having the issue
I really went over the car when I purchased it in 9/21. I changed plugs but don't have the brand listed in my records. I'm sure they're iridium. I'll pull number 5 and check. Which cylinder is number 5?
We just took the car out of winter storage. Started right up and ran like a champ. Vibration issue hasn't changed. Really pronounced when car is stopped but still in gear. I still wonder about the transmission mount as I know they commonly fail. But most people report symptoms of rough shifting or clunking noises under console. I have neither.
Fix the transmission mount it is a spider web mount and very expensive but here's how to fix it
take it off clean it up and fill it with some of that windscreen sealant or look on u tube guys do it all the time it will take a day to dry I did mine last wk as part of a rear mail seal fix no vibration or clunking and you don't feel when the shifting occurs but itll last forever after that
2000 rl 439 km
thAT one wil work but you dont have to buy one you cant aww it as its behind the heat shield remove the exhaust and heat shield and remove the mount and then fill it with the silicone stuff I was telling you about look on you tube for it takes about a day to cure
I'd say they're ok. No cracking. Maybe adjust the cold idle air valve and put a couple of bottles of Redline SI-1 and see where that gets you. It at least helped if not cured mine. Also, the C-Series tend to run rough for a while if they haven't been started regularly.
Also maybe do the idle relearn procedure. Warm up the car, then disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Then while the car is in park, start the engine, rev to 3000 rpm until the radiator fans come on. Now make sure all lights are off, a/c switch if off, and the rear defogger is off. Once you get to this step, let her idle for 5 minutes on her own then shut the engine off. Idle speed should be 650 plus or minus 50.
Also, the C-Series tend to run rough for a while if they haven't been started regularly.
Right. We just took this car out of storage, hadn't been started since November and the vibes were worse. So not sure on thinking it's the mounts. I really wish the engine and transmission mounts were easy to inspect. This is not an easy car/engine to work on. Another reason I may want a 2005-2008.
This car is pretty easy to work on. Especially compared to the 05-08 RLs. They can have a bunch of weird electrical issues. Dump some RL SI-1, drive the car normally for about 30-40 miles, then drive the car hard for a bit and change the oil out for some Redline 5w30. For some reason, it helped my RL a lot back in December of 2021. Change the plugs too. Plug #5 doesn't get changed a lot due to techs not wanting to take out the strut brace. NGK ruthenium plugs work great. If it is still bad. Maybe check the vacuum lines? Bad or incorrectly routed hoses/lines will cause issues including a rough idle.
Alright. Gonna agree to disagree on this one. Maybe its cause I have lived with one my whole life? Anyways, if you need help, I'm here. I will say this though. I'd rather do the timing belt on the 1G than on the 2G. I hate the auto-tensioners on the J-series. Too easy to set the belt wrong.
I meant the engine bay is compact and complex. The timing belt, water pump job costs much more than a V6 Accord. 2014 Accord was $675 for tb/wp. Estimate from same shop for the Acura was over $1000. We have a 2005 Merc E320 too. The engine compartment has a lot more room to work in.
Just thought of something. Does it smooth out at about 1000 Rpms? What rpms and gears does she run rough at? Maybe the mounts aren't being signaled to go "soft" when below 850rpm. This could be due to incorrectly hooked up/leaking/clogged vacuum lines, bad engine mount control solenoid, or bad mounts.
01-05-2023, 01:26 PM
