kc523

Hi, last week I was driving my 2018 Acura RDX (which I have only owned three years- bought it used) and it started to severely jerk when I'd try and drive it. I took it to the dealer I bought it used from and they told me I need a new transmission and it would cost $5,800 (that is with an "discount" from corporate Acura). The folks at the dealership told me they were so sorry this happened and its not something they usually see. Given the age of the car, how well I have maintained it since I have owned it, and those comments from the dealership I feel that Acura should cover more of the costs. I have a little over 103k miles on it. My dashboard lit up with numerous warnings when this first occurred. Below are the comments from the inspection as well as the DTC report. I feel given the age of the car and how well I've maintained it that I should not need a new transition on a 6 year old car. It is pretty much undrivable at this point. Would like any feedback/thoughts about how I can respond to Acura to cover more of the cost to repair or anything else that would be helpful to know/any insight. Thank you!

Alex Medeiros

Unfortunately you're getting lucky with them offering to do it for that price and not more. Obviously going with another shop that specializes in it would be cheaper. Have you tried getting the transmission fluid changed (NOT FLUSHED) to see if it makes any difference? Otherwise I'd be leaning towards it being the torque converter crapping out on you.

kc523

Than you for your reply. I have not tried to see about getting the transmission fluid changed. I do not know a lot about cars but do you think that would be worth trying? What is the estimated cost of that? I also am unfamiliar with the torque converter. Would it be possible to just replace this piece without replacing the entire transmission?

Also, on another message board I posted about my problem I got this reply to my same question. Wondering if you/anyone have heard of trying this: "Try to get them to replace the 3rd clutch pressure switch and clear codes and see if it ever happens again. There’s been some instances where when it shifts into third it doesn’t get the response from the 3rd clutch pressure switch so it pretty much holds the shift solenoid open longer. This causes the transmission to shift into 3rd but the vehicle still thinks it’s in 2nd and it will set the code for a bad solenoid. I don’t know why it does this instead of setting the code for a pressure switch stuck off, because most of the time it will set the p0848 for a stuck off pressure switch.

I’ve personally seen this twice and a 3rd clutch pressure switch has fixed it. Sometimes the on board snapshot will have both the p0776 and p0848 codes listed. But you actually have to go into the menu to find it, the all dtc check won’t catch it.

Before I was told this by a tech much smarter than me, I had replaced 2 transmissions under warranty for this code on different vehicles."

Thanks for your insight!

Clickit02

To replace torque convertor (TC), the entire transmission will have to be removed – big job. BTW, I doubt it is TC. Typically, TC is very robust and does not fail, at least not before clutches or valves fail. The advice you’ve got from another forum is definitely worth trying. Lastly, for any estimate and especially if the transmission has to be replaced, I would go to independent shop for second opinion and quote.

Alex Medeiros

There were a lot of issues with them actually through the 2013-2017 and 2017-2018 models. There were service bulletin TSBs and extended warranties as a result. I had the same issue and it was most likely the torque converter, but I lived with it until my car was totaled.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...41888-0001.pdf

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...41881-0001.pdf

"Torque converters may not have been manufactured to proper specifications. As a result, the torque converter lock-up clutch cannot provide adequate holding force due to pressure bleeding down through a crack in the lock-up piston. The reduced lock-up clutch capacity results in the MIL illuminating and set DTC P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck OFF."

altair47

Installing a new transmission is throwing money away. These transmissions are quite reliable, so they cost nothing on the used market + $1000-1300 (8 hours) labor and consumables for replacement. https://ahparts.com/buy-used/2014-ac...8c000/371764-1

emry

The tranny fluid has to changed every 35K miles. Failing to do so will result to serious transmission gear wear out.

It's not a matter of worth trying here. It is a mandatory action.

Changing the ATF is a very simple process. All it takes is to remove one bolts underneath of the front of the car and let the fluid drain. After that fill it from top of the engine by removing one bolt and put it back after fill. If you cannot do this, then you have to take to a shop to do it for you but the cost must not be a rip off since it is a fast and easy job.
If the ATF has not been changed in your car, then it must be flushed twice to make sure the fluid is clean in the system. You must buy the ATF fluid exclusively from the dealership and not from part stores or aftermarket ones.

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Now the issue of the dealership and the car they sold to you. You should go there and demand they come with the proof that the car's transmission fluid change history had been checked and verified by them before selling the car to you. If they had failed to do so and just blatantly sold an ill-maintained car to you they can be hold responsible. Of course, they will always try to deny any responsibility but that is their side and interests. If that happens, go to a lawyer for consultation and just pay $100 to see what your legal options are. If the lawyer says you can suite them and get a free transmission from them then it is worth try. Otherwise, you will be on your own and almost no other option that paying it yourself.

jjrphs

If I were in your shoes, I would do a 3x fill / drain with Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic ATF. If you can't do it yourself, go get the 3 gallons of MaxLife ATF and have an independent mechanic do the drain / fills. Many folks (including myself) have had positive results in Honda / Acura "mis-behaving" transmissions. What do you have to lose?

This is hyperbole, overstatement and simply not true. Honda / Acura recommended transmission service interval is 60k miles. My personal transmission service interval using Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic ATF is every 50k miles. I have over 1 million miles in my "personal Honda/Acura fleet" using MaxLife ATF.

Despite what this member suggests...you NEVER should flush a Honda / Acura automatic transmission. Do only drain and fills.

Again, despite what this member suggests, you don't have to exclusively used Honda / Acura labeled ATF. As mentioned above, many Honda / Acura owners have had positive outcomes with problematic transmissions using Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic ATF.

Just Yesterday, I performed a 3x drain / fill with Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic ATF on my wife's newly acquired 18 RDX-Advance AWD. And...I also added a S-VCM Controller!

emry

One should ask this guy why 3x drain/fill? Isn't that because to get most of the dirty old ATF out of the system? And that is not better achieved by a flush?

Good for you. If it's recommended at 60K miles then why do you change it at 50K? And if changing ATF at a lower interval is a good practice to keep the tranny healthy what is wrong changing it at 35K miles if someone can afford the cost? Apparently you consider yourself as a authoritative entity to prescribe whatever you do to others.

You simply must learn that there is a difference between a personal opinion and a fact. You, me and all others are entitles to our opinions here but coming and saying that you have the monopoly on the truth is one of those hyperboles!

See my above comments that apply here too.

Alex Medeiros

Flushing it can cause more issues like blockages or worse shifting. When you drain and fill it, that's just the easiest and gentlest way to do it to the system with potentially moving any contaminants. Flushing usually should only be done when wrong fluids are used or in some other circumstances.

altair47

I think the fact that he did not forget the dowel pin on the water pump already makes his opinion more authoritative. I bought a 2012 TL last week with 420k miles, with original transmission and transmission fluid change interval every 60k miles(according to the carfax.).

emry

That's one version that some believe but there are other versions that counter that too. But to compliment your statement the power flush is used to get those potential debris out of the system.

Of course a flush is not necessary if ATF is changed on its recommended intervals. I was pointing on very old and very high mileage trannies that had not changed the ATF like the one of OP. No matter how many times you drain and fill it is not possible to get all old fluid out and I think with a good flush you can get that.

emry

Thus far, my understanding is that from more than 1200 posts you have placed in this forum the great majority are either thread hijacking, noise, no value added, blanket statements with no proofs, and barely if any helping others with valid technical advise. And I am added to the list of your victims.

altair47

I think anyone who refers to J.D. Power, forgets to tighten the caliper bolts, tries to service his car to such an extent that he then has to call a mobile mechanic, can hardly give sensible advice and recommendations.

emry

Yeah people should listen to one who brings a high school girl to learn about sparkplugs and advises people to run their car past 130K+ miles with the same plugs and posts Advanced Auto ad as the proof that plugs can go past 120K miles and baselessly claims J.D. Power is a corrupt company with not even one single proof of that is simply a troll that has no life and comes here to only high jack people's threads and fill his life (that doesn't have one ). You are a troll buddy. I think by now most people know you.

altair47

I think every self-respecting man should know that lying is bad, but you don’t respect yourself at all when you attribute to me the recommendation to drive more than 130k miles.

emry

Did you just said I had forgotten to tighten the caliper bolt? I had serviced my brakes 2 years ago, if I had forgotten to tighten the bolt it was loosen almost immediately not after 2 years. So it is obvious who is the liar here and has the nerve to call me or others liar. At least I have the guts to seek advice from fellow users. How about you? Have you ever told what mistakes had you made? Don't let me make an educated guess. I firmly believe you even don't know the most basics of car repairs and maintenance. As I said, you have no life that's why you come here often to spread noise and parasitic messages. This is actually another proof that you have highjacked other's thread.

It's really not your fault. It is more the fault of admins and moderators that don't perma-ban you and one like you. If they did, others wouldn't dare to troll and waste everyone's time.

altair47

Then complain to the admins because I offend you.

Ron A

No complaint received, just my aversion to controversies so closing this thread.