Lrpba300

Well, you're welcome. That's why I started the thread & everyone joins in to help the community of RDX out! Hope it goes well. (It should. If you've done oil changes before!)

russianDude

Buying your own Mobil1 oil at walmart and bringing it to the dealer saves your $40-50+ on the spot.

flipsauce

This... just brings a tear to my eye . I've been changing oil on my various cars for 15 years and have had to put up with ramps, multiple catch pans, manifold burns, removing parts to get at the filter, needless spills... this design is just so simple. Perfect.

For the first time, I'm actually looking forward to changing my oil!

russianDude

the only time I change at the dealer is during winter, I am not laying down in freezing temps.

DC5Max

Is the castrol syntec 5w-30 ok for the RDX?

Lrpba300

As long as it has the "HTO-06" Honda rating on it, it's fine. It's probably ok anyway, (like a lot are) but if you have a warranty issue, Honda / Acura may try to get out of paying if you use an oil that DOESN'T meet that spec. Yes, there are ways they can test for it..........

DC5Max

Thank you, I will look into it.

juroz

Thanks for the great DIY info!!

Anyone else have trouble unscrewing the damn bolt? it's so tight, im having trouble What do you guys use?! A machine? I'm using a hand wrench.. and it aint moving one bit.

Aton

Hi there,

Newbie here. Thanks everyone for all the valuable information & advice.

Can someone shed some light for D-I-Y Oil Change in Canada? I've tried but didn't see any reply to the above question.

Should I try the Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30? And how would that affects my warranty?

Thanks in advance!

TNSamurai

I noticed there is also a honda filter wrench (not a typical strap) on that site too. Do you know if that will work with the M1 filter?

princelybug

iTrader: (16)

You should be fine.

russianDude

Its not needed. Filters can be installed without wrench (just use your grip to tighten it). And to remove the best thing is to buy pillars for filter removal. Wrench is waste of money, I have it, but then still end up buying pillars. Its too difficult to use it, and it always snaps off and etc.

tpf1979

found this:

http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/98ku79-1.html

$5.93/quart? Nice!

It seems that Mobil "super synthetic" has same specs as Mobil 1. Has anyone heard of know otherwise? Look like this would be the best oil deal for the RDX.... If I can find good deal on honda or mobil filters- would be about $35 for DYI.. Not too shabby...

DRR98

Is 10/30 needed/ok in Cali Summer heat...110ish max? First oil change is coming up.

phrosty

Same way with the old '83 diesel Benz I have. Gotta love German engineering... most of the time, anyway.

truelies

I took off the turbo cooler cover to help show the oil filling area. You can also clean out the grid on top. (BE VERY CAFEFUL! THE FINS BEND VERY EASILY!!)
-----------------------

I am confused about this, the manual just says open the cap and put new oil in. Why you want to "Remove the turbo cooler cover"?

zekerdx

This was really helpful as I am visual when it comes to stuff like this. Thanks!

truelies

Just did my first oil change for RDX, I didn't know the bolt and oil filter are at the very front of the car. Spent some time to figure this out.

hotbryan333

DO you guys use the mobil 1 synthetic with truck and SUV?

I have been using the regular mobil 1 synthetic, Whats the difference between the truck and suv oil vs the regular oil?

JCRDX11

I use the regular mobil 1 synthetic.
Extended one if the regular mobil 1 is out of stock.

say what

I believe they are the same according to my mechanic. If not, someone please shed some light on this matter.

R_D_X

if you guys check your oil lvl in the morning should it be at the top hole or in the mid lvl? mine is between the mid and top hole

who1975

I used a longer wrench to get some more torque to get it unscrewed. I had trouble as well with a shorter wrench but got it off with a longer one. Good Luck.

Szwed

Just did my first diy oil change in my 08. Probably one of the easiest oil changes ive done in my life. Thanks for the pictures, made me get off my ass and actually do it myself haha. Getting the oil drain bolt off took some leverage though, had to use the wall in my garage to push off with my legs to turn the bolt lol.

Dealer oil change cost: $100
DIY oil change cost: $40

Lrpba300

Congrats to all who have used this thread! That's why I posted it. It is SOOOO easy to do! Just did my first oil / filter change on my '12. Purrs like a kitten when it has new juice & filter! Ever any questions about this, just post on here & I or some other well trained RDX'er will get you an answer!

dcmodels

I use a 15inch long flex head 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench. I am right-handed, so I 'push' firmly, constant pressure, with my right hand, and then 'hit' my right hand (fist) with my open left hand. After a couple of fairly firm 'hits' the bolt 'snaps' loose. Trying to loosen the bolt simply by pushing or pulling, is more difficult.

Its the sharp rap of your hand-against-hand that pops loose the bolt. I know it seems silly, but it works. And since you are hitting one hand against the other, not against a steel wrench, you are not going to hurt your hand.

dcmodels

According to the Mobil web site, the description of the two 'versions' is slightly different. You can also read the MSDS or PDS (product data sheet) for the two oils, which again, does not look much different to me. However, ...

The one difference that I note is that the Sulfated Ash percentage is LOWER for the 'regular' oil, compared to the SUV oil. That is of particular importance when a turbo is present, and is specifically mentioned in Acura RDX literature when oil use is discussed. Acura has stated that it specifically chose the Mobil brand of oil for its low ash.

But make your own choice, and particularly, read the lastest data posted on the Mobil-1 web site ...

Last time I looked, Mobil did NOT actually suggest that the SUV oil is OK to use in the RDX. You should look for yourself, and I would have no idea why one oil would be OK and the other not OK, for RDX use, other than the ash specification.

I personnaly always use the EP (extended performance) 5W30 oil, because supposedly it has more additive, and has the same HTO-06 RDX use approval as the 'regular' 5W30 stuff. Costs only about $2-3 more at WalMart for 5qts.

TheRoxzilla

I have a question regarding the Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

If the bottle says guaranteed protection for 15,000 miles, does this mean that I should not change my oil at 6236 Miles, when my light came on today? (for those that are curious, and not not seen, it will keep a running count of miles you went past your oil change warning.)

If I wait until 15,000 miles, should I just go ahead and reset the light now and wait until the next time it comes on. (I assume after another 6236 miles?)

THANKS

truelies

Not correct. Before 2012, RDX requires synthetic oil. So the computer is for 15,000 miles.

2013 RDX requires normal oil, so the computer will be 0% at about 7500 miles.

russianDude

15k is too long IMHO. I would nut run Mobil1 EP more than 10k in RDX.

dcmodels

I have posted the following before, but here it is again...

I suggest that you read ALL of what is printed on the EP bottle of oil, as well as what Mobil has stated on their web site. You do not mention how many miles are on your vehicle, or whether or not it is still under warranty - but Mobil specifically states (on their web site) to follow the MID during the warranty period, so yes, you would change when the MID light comes on, if under warranty.

Which means that if your vehicle is under warranty, and you do not reset the MID, then the dealer will know that you have not changed your oil when required by Acura (the MID light).

When the MID light comes on will depend upon your driving conditions - more severe conditions can cause the light to come on at well under 3K miles, as I know from direct experience.

And here is what Mobil says about severe conditions on their web site:

Extended Performance FAQs - 15K interval subject to the following conditions:
If Mobil 1 Extended Performance is recommended for 15,000-mile intervals, what’s the maximum limit to which it can be pushed? In other words, if a driver goes an extra 1,000 miles or so, is he going to damage his engine?
Mobil 1 Extended Performance is recommended for up to 15,000-miles or one-year oil change intervals, whichever occurs first. However, if your vehicle manufacturer recommends an oil change interval beyond 15,000 miles and Mobil 1 Extended Performance meets the performance level specified, you can be assured that Mobil 1 Extended Performance will go the distance.

Do I need to flush my engine before switching to Mobil 1 Extended Performance?
You do not need to flush your engine prior to changing to Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

Upon what driving conditions are these performance claims based? Normal or severe driving conditions?
These claims relate to all typical consumer driving conditions, excluding those mentioned below. In other words, if you drive under normal conditions and use Mobil 1 Extended Performance in your vehicle, the oil is guaranteed to protect your engine for 15,000 miles [my ed: or one year - read the bottle label]. We also recommend that drivers consult their owner’s manual while their vehicle is under warranty, and follow the guidelines set forth there. Additionally, we recommend that if consumers drive routinely in severe conditions that they follow the oil change interval recommended in their owner's manual for severe conditions. We define "severe conditions" as:

racing or commercial applications;
frequent towing or hauling;
extremely dusty or dirty conditions; or
excessive idling [my ed: I think that means heavy city traffic].

Mobil-1 synthetic FAQs:
1) Should I follow the "severe" service oil change intervals mentioned in my owner's manual? Does Mobil 1 offer specific benefits under these conditions?
Many kinds of driving conditions qualify your vehicle for severe service oil change intervals, and Mobil 1 is ideal for this service. Severe service conditions can include, among other things:

Trips of less than 10 miles
Driving in cold weather
Idling for extended periods
Stop-and-go traffic
Pulling trailers/carrying heavy loads
Driving in dusty conditions

Under both normal and severe service conditions, Mobil 1 is engineered to provide performance reserves in the areas of sludge prevention, piston cleanliness, wear protection, and high-temperature durability.

2) How often should I change the oil if I'm using Mobil 1?
Oil change intervals can be as short as 3,000 miles or as long as 15,000 miles on some new cars. We recommend that you follow the oil and filter change frequencies shown in your owner's manual, especially during the warranty period. With Mobil 1's high-performance reserves, you can have the confidence to go the full mileage or time frame recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil 1 is especially suitable for the latest vehicles with extended drain intervals or vehicles with oil monitoring systems that vary oil drain intervals.

3) Why do you have to change your motor oil on a regular basis ? (YES, THIS IS FROM THE MOBIL WEB SITE)
Motor oil breaks down over time. When it breaks down, it loses its effectiveness and can no longer properly protect your engine.

In addition to lubricating an engine's moving parts, motor oil is designed to carry combustion by-products away from the pistons and cylinders. It is designed to deal with the small amounts of water that form as the engine heats and cools, and to collect the dirt and dust that enter the engine through the air-intake system. It also handles acids that are formed by the reaction between water and other contaminants. Sometimes there are even fuel leaks (fuel dilution) or coolant leaks that get into the oil system.

As a car is driven, the level of contamination in the motor oil constantly increases. The oil filter removes particles as the oil passes through the filter, but over time an oil's additives are used up and the oil itself can start to degrade (oxidize or thicken). At that point, the oil can no longer do its job and must be changed.

The rate at which contamination and additive depletion occurs depends on many variables. One of these is driving conditions, which vary greatly and have a direct effect on the useful life of the oil. Other factors include the precision of ignition, fuel injection or carburetion adjustments, air cleaner service and the general mechanical condition of the engine.

Oil should be changed before the contamination level reaches the point where engine damage can result. Because it is difficult for the individual motorist to determine when the contamination level is too high, automobile manufacturers provide recommended oil change intervals. These change recommendations vary by model year and manufacturer. Recommended intervals and mileage limits also vary with the type of service under which a car operates. More frequent oil changes are recommended for severe service.

russianDude

If his RDX is not under warranty, he does not have to follow MID.
The only real way to tell is to send his sample to oil analysis lab, I think last time I checked it was $20.
If he drives under normal conditions and puts less than 10K miles a year, then I am pretty sure Mobil1 EP with Mobil1 filter will do just fine.
I did this on my old Acura CL, 10K oil changes... sold it when it has 100K, ran perfect.

dcmodels

Pretty sure I said that, a couple of times, and so does Mobil. But read what Mobil does say, very carefully, as they have stated several exceptions to *not* following the MID.

I am not enamored of nor impressed by a single oil analysis, but decide for yourself.

Based on the Mobil definition of "normal", I do not know of anyone who drives under normal conditions, unless that is mostly highway miles. I am only repeating what Mobil has posted online.

But the CL you only kept until 100K miles, whereas my goal for my RDX is 300K miles or 500K kilometers. Also, the CL has no turbo - much less heat - much less degradation of the oil.

And if I only wanted to keep my RDX to 100K miles, I would not bother with EP oil, or the other additional preventive maintenance I practice. Each vehicle owner must decide how they will maintain their own car.

russianDude

goodluck keeping it to 300K miles. Honda engines usually the least thing to worry, they run long time if taken care of properly. The car just gets old, my CL was 12 years old, and was having small problems here and there, becomes annoying if you have busy life.

if you are that serious about keeping your car to 300K, then oil analysis investment is a good idea.

Last Acura

Thank you for this guide, I have never changed oil before and this made it so simple. I had trouble loosening the nut, I think it was over-tighten but my friendly neighbor gave me a few tools and it came off. After that it was smooth sailing. This is so simple, I can't believe dealerships charge $90+ for this.

I used the Penzoil Platnium this time, I figured it can't hurt to try.

Can't wait to do the next one hehehe.

Jordalenko

Thanks. I'm going to give this a try.

Lrpba300

As I've said before, this is here for everyone to use & benefit from it so they don't have to pay some dealer an outrageous price just to change the oil! It is easy, even for those that have never don it. I did my '12 for the first time a month or so ago & didn't even think about it.! I've done so many now on the RDX, it's like doing it in your sleep!!!

sinnersahuayo

here my oil change with oil filter form flitech(OEM).

dcmodels

^^^^interesting - I had wondered if the FILTER-MAG would fit onto the filter, with the small space between the filter and the aluminum shield.

crxtype-r

mobile 1 and the new valvoline syn power oil are the only oils rated for the turbo rdx they have special additives in them . also go by what your oil cap requires . no Castrol or royal purple !. amsoil is also good but expensive. DO YOUR research on the oil you use first . it be wise also never go over 5k , you can but just like all 4 cyl Honda motors prolonged oil changes causes timing chain stretch p0341. oil psi feed tensioner gets clogged and then expensive fix , just because you want to extent your oil interval . food for thought . youtube eric the car guy oil review. gives some good info on all oil. and answers a lot of questions and its designs.