DIY – how to magnetize your engine oil:
07-01-2012, 11:29 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
DIY – how to magnetize your engine oil:
ENGINE Drain Plug MAGNET:
OK, I am just making a little joke, based on the old idea of using cow-magnets on the fuel-line, to magnetize the fuel (was supposed to improve gas mileage). Nutty ideas for improving gas-mileage are hardly new.
Actually, I am suggesting that you use magnets for additional/ auxiliary particle filtering of engine oil:
1) use a magnetic engine oil drain plug, and
2) use magnet(s) inside or on the oil filter (discussed in next post).
DANGER: use safety Jack-Stands if you jack up your car, and take other safety measures when working on your car. A falling car can maim or kill you.
GOAL: an engine-turbo life of 250K miles (400K kilometers), in a 2009 Acura RDX driven 90% of the time in trips under 10 miles, often under 2 miles. That is severe service since the engine oil seldom warms to full operating temperature, especially during the winter.
SUMMARY:
These are the reasons to use magnets for particle filtering, in addition to the oil filter. An engine magnetic drain plug is an easy and inexpensive addition to your RDX:
Ø All manufacturers, including Honda/ Acura, use magnets in various automotive oiling systems. GM has placed engine oil drain plug magnets in all car models for at least the past 15 years.
Ø The small size of the RDX engine oil filter prevents efficient filtering with even a premium filter, compared to an inexpensive large size filter. This statement is based on information printed right on the oil filter packaging of leading filter manufacturers: Puralator, Mobil-1, and Fram as specific examples.
Ø Unfiltered particles have the potential to damage turbo bearings, which are roller/ ball type and there is some actual metal-to-metal contract, unlike engine Crankshaft bearings, which ride on a film of oil (no metal-to-metal contact in theory).
Ø Unfiltered particles also have the potential to damage the tiny holes in the VTEC system, from abrasive flow-action. The RDX has mesh screens in the VTEC system for a reason.
Ø Magnets will attract much smaller particles than can be filtered by normal oil filters. And the magnetic particles are the most damaging, since they are steel and the hardest. Plus magnets have no effect on filter flow-rate, which can be affected by a high-efficiency oil-filtering medium when used in a small/ tiny oil-filter canister.
HOW DOES MY RDX MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG PERFORM?
The pictures below show the neodymium engine drain plug from my RDX. The plug was installed on my RDX for 1703 miles, between mile 20,679 and mile 22,382, and between 25 Aug 2011 and 20 Nov 2011.
A K&N oil filter was installed during that time, with two small magnets inside. More information concerning the engine oil filter and magnets, will be discussed in a later post in this same thread.
My point is that the amount of material on the drain plug was in addition to a similar amount of material on each of the two magnets inside the oil filter.
The oil used was Mobil-1 Extended Performance 5W30. Keep in mind that this vehicle is primarily used only in trips under 10 miles: commuting to work and to the grocery mart or an exercise class. I consider that severe service.
PICTURE: RDX engine drain plug
The amount of material on the drain plug, is what I would call ‘light’, and has been about the same for all oil changes to date. The tan-yellow color on the magnet shaft is oil. The black stuff is metal, composed of particles too small to see individually. The amount of black material on the RDX magnet is more than I usually see on the OEM magnet in my Chevy 4x4 at 100K miles. However, the difference may be that the Chevy magnet is ceramic, and the RDX magnet is neodymium, which is 10 times more powerful than ceramic.
PICTURE: RDX engine drain plug
The tan-yellow color on the paper towel is oil. The black is metal particles from the magnet on the drain plug. Note that there is no obvious epoxy around the magnet.
PICTURE: RDX engine drain plug
The next picture is from a KTM motorcycle engine drain plug. Now, if you see metal this large on your RDX drain plug, it is time to worry. I have occasionally seen only one or two particles that size on my Chevy drain plug, but never any on the RDX magnet.
PICTURE: KTM motorcycle engine drain plug
WHICH CAR MANUFACTURERS USE MAGNETS IN VARIOUS OIL SYSTEMS?
All of them.
Both of my GM Chevy vehicles have OEM factory engine magnetic drain plugs, transmission pan magnet, transfer case magnet, power steering pump magnet, and rear differential case magnet
My 2009 RDX has an OEM factory transmission magnetic drain plug, transmission case internal magnet, and rear differential magnetic drain plug.
So why doesn’t every car manufacturer use magnets in every oil system, on every car? I think that a comment made by someone rebuilding a Chevy Corvette Muncie manual transmission is appropriate here. The trans re-builder’s comment was along the lines of “well, if you had told a 1960s Chevy engineer that we would be rebuilding 40-50 year old Corvette transmissions someday, he would have thought you were crazy. You were supposed to just buy another car every two years, and many of us did just that”.
Often, even when a magnet is included, as inside the RDX transmission, there is no way to remove and clean the magnet, allowing metallic particles to build-up ‘forever’.
So do you think Acura cares if your RDX lasts for 250K miles? There is a reason for the specified length of the mileage/ year warranty on the RDX.
HOW EFFICIENT IS THE RDX ENGINE OIL FILTER?
Please, if you wish to discuss comparison of specific oil filter brands, there are hundreds of existing online threads where you can do that. I am not comparing filters per se but only repeating what has been published by the filter manufacturers themselves, right on the filter package. I am not aware of any valid information regarding oil filter efficiency, other than that printed by the manufacturers. Anything else is just base speculation.
These particular filter brands below are listed, because I have used these brands, and because these manufacturers have provided the information which allows discussion. The idea here is to give some indication of the level of efficiency of an RDX size filter.
1) The Purolator Pure One small/ tiny RDX filter is rated at 40 microns and 99.9%, and their Classic RDX filter is rated at 40 microns and 97.5%. Other small Purolator filters ratings are estimated, based on the test done on this specific RDX filter.
On the other hand, the medium size Purolator Pure One filter for my Chevy V6 is rated at 20 microns and 99.9% efficiency. Clearly, filter size matters because it allows more filtering medium, for greater efficiency in filtering smaller particles. This is an estimated rating based on a test done on the PL-30001, a larger filter that is the size of the Fram PH8A, which is 1.5 times the size of the Chevy filter, and 3-times the size of the RDX filter.
2) The current Mobil M1-110 RDX filter has an estimated rating of 99.9% based on a test done on an M1-301 filter, but no micron size is given, making the rating meaningless. Mobil has previously published (2007) that their filters are 99.6% efficient at 25 microns, but again, that rating is based on a test done on the M1-301 filter, about the size of a Fram PH8A. The small M1-110 is a popular filter to use on many large motorcycle engines. I personally want a car sized filter on my cars. You can check the Mobil-1 filter efficiency rating for yourself here:
LINK: Mobil-1 oil filter efficiency @25 microns
http://www.mobil.com/Shared-Files-LCW/mobil-1-ep-oil-filter-design_amer_en.pdf
3) The Fram Tough Guard TG7317-RDX filter is rated at 20 microns and 99.0% efficiency. The Fram Extra Guard RDX filter is rated at 20 microns and 95.0% efficiency. Again, the RDX filter rating is an estimated rating based on tests performed on a different filter, the TG6607, which is actually smaller than the TG7317-RDX filter, so that rating may be very valid.
4) As another data point, to show that medium size filters can be efficient, the AC Delco UltraGuard Gold filters are made for late-model Corvettes. One of these just happens to fit the V6 in my Chevy 4x4. The Gold filter for my 4x4 is rated at 98.0% at 8-10 microns. This is the highest efficiency rated filter of which I am aware. This filter is only half the size of a Fram PH8A, but still 1.5 times larger than the RDX filter size. All other AC Delco oil filters are rated at 98% and 25-30 microns.
So GM apparently thinks that a high efficiency filter is a good idea for Corvettes, but not for any other GM vehicle.
PICTURE: micron size comparison
Again, note that the Purolator filter that fits my Chevy 4x4 is rated at 20 microns, but the smaller Purolator RDX filter is rated at only 40 microns. And note that while 40 microns may be only twice the diameter of 20 microns, the particle is actually much bigger in volume, as shown in the picture above.
HOW IMPORTANT IS A SMALL DIFFERENCE IN FILTER EFFICIENCY?
The Purolator Pure One filter which fits the RDX, is rated 99.9% at 40-microns. The Purolator Classic filter which fits the RDX, is rated at 97.5% at 40-microns.
While the difference between 97.5% and 99.9% may seem small, it means that the less efficient filter will pass about 25 times as many 40-micron particles as the more efficient one, for the Purolator filters. Understand, that is not 25% more particles, IT MEANS 25-TIMES AS MANY or 2,500% more particles.
The difference between 95.0% and 99.0% means that the less efficient filter will pass 5 times as many particles as the more efficient filter. And it follows that 99.9% efficiency is 10 times more efficient than merely 99.0% efficiency. And that should give some idea of why that last 0.9% is important.
So, one more example. The difference between 95.0% and 99.9% means that the less efficient filter will pass 50-times as many particles as the more efficient one. This is why all of the newer filters are now giving a rating of not just 99.0% but 99.9%, but most often, there is no corresponding micron size given. Without that micron size as well, the percentage rating is worthless. You need to know just how small the particles are, that are being filtered out.
SMALL OIL FILTERS ARE LESS EFFICIENT THAN LARGE FILTERS:
My intent here is to indicate that small filters like the RDX size, are less efficient than larger filters that are the size of the Fram PH8A. A Fram PH8A filter fits the 5-liter V8 Ford engine in my old van. It is 1.5 times the size of the filter in my current Chevy 4x4, and 3 times the size of the filter in my RDX.
RDX filter = (3.75H x 2.7D inches) = 21.5 cu-in
Chevy 4x4 filter = (5.1H x 3.0D inches) = 36.0 cu-in
Ford Fram PH8A filter = (5.7H x 3.6D inches) = 58.0 cu-in
It should be obvious that a larger filter is more efficient, but perhaps it is not. A larger filter-can allows more internal filtering material, and the additional filtering material allows more efficient filtering without reducing flow-through of the oil. This is reflected in the ISO-4548 multi-pass test currently used to rate filters efficiency.
And that is why the filter manufacturers are generally using a larger filter to perform the actual tests, and then estimating the efficiency of their smaller filters, based on a test on a large filter.
NOTE: small filter flow-through restriction is somewhat offset if a synthetic or partial synthetic medium is used, instead of treated-cellulose (paper). So some brands of small filters will be much more efficient than other brands, both in terms of flow-through as well as particle filtering efficiency.
The following chart is obviously from AC Delco, since their UltraGuard Gold filter is rated the best at flow rate. Still, I find the comparison to be of interest, because it shows that the Gold filter, with 100% synthetic filtering medium, can have both high flow-rate as well as high particle filtering efficiency. That is reflected in the dealer price of $24 each for the Gold filters.
CHART: filter flow-rate
DOESN’T THE RDX ENGINE OIL FILTER WORK WELL ENOUGH BY ITSELF?
Well, I hope that it is clear from the previous sections, that information regarding the actual efficiency and micron-rating for a specific RDX oil filter is rarely given. But it would seem that quality/ premium filters for the RDX will filter most particles larger than about 20 to 40 microns, but at varying levels of efficiency.
It is generally acknowledged that 40-micron size particles and larger can damage an engine over time. And most filters will remove the majority of 40-micron particles or larger. I am personally more concerned about the turbo-bearings than the engine bearings.
Are particles under 40 microns damaging? Acura thinks that they are to the transmission, hence the trans magnetic drain plug and trans internal case magnet. The RDX turbo does not use the same type of bearing that the engine uses. Engine bearings in theory do not allow metal-to-metal contact, except during start-up. Oil pressure/ flow prevents engine bearing metal contact. Turbo bearings are different, and grind even the smallest particles between the bearing rollers/ balls and the bearing races.
Finally, there is the RDX VTEC system, which uses oil pressure to control cam/ valve timing. This system uses mesh filters, located on the engine block. Why? If there is an efficient oil filter, why are these mesh screens necessary? What is the abrasive effect of high-pressure oil with suspended particles flowing through the tiny orifices of the VTEC system? I do not know.
I have chosen to add both drain plug magnet and oil filter magnet, to capture the particles smaller than those captured by the oil filter.
SOME MINOR CONCERNS ABOUT DRAIN PLUG MAGNETS:
I have been using an engine magnetic drain plug since the first RDX oil change at 4K miles, until now at 27K miles. The oil is changed approximately every 1800 miles and 3-months. There is always a small amount of material on the engine drain plug magnet. The RDX drain plug is steel, the magnet is neodymium type, and the magnet is glued in place (not crimped).
Still, I do have some reservations concerning the use of drain plug magnets, as follows:
Ø The GM and Subaru OEM engine magnetic drain plugs that I have seen have the magnet secured mechanically. That is, the magnet is ‘crimped’ in place (secured) with metal, and no glue.
Ø The Acura RDX transmission and rear differential magnetic drain plugs have the magnet secured mechanically by crimping. I see no evidence of glue.
Ø All aftermarket magnetic drain plugs that I have seen have the magnet held in place only with ‘glue’, probably some sort of epoxy. A high-power neodymium magnet is unlikely to fall out of a steel drain plug, even if the epoxy fails. A low-power ceramic magnet might.
Ø If the drain plug itself is not magnetic, such as aluminum or titanium, and if the epoxy holding the magnet fails, the magnet can attach to some moving engine part and cause damage. I would only buy a steel drain plug with a magnet.
PICTURE: Subaru drain plug w/ crimped magnet
WHY DO MANUFACTURERS USE GLUE TO SECURE THE MAGNET?
The short answer is that it is easier and cheaper than the mechanical method used by OEM car makers. And here is what can happen if glue or some other method is not used to secure the magnet. The picture shows the original ceramic magnet which fell out of the original drain plug, and the broken gear tooth which resulted, stuck to the end of the replacement drain plug neodymium magnet.
PICTURE: Harley broken drain plug magnet
I have purchased about 12 different magnetic drain plugs from four different sources. There is a great deal of variance in quality control, even from the same vendor. Most often the amount of glue used to secure the magnet to the plug is visibly excessive, oozing out around the base of the magnet and onto the plug. If possible, examine carefully the plug before purchase. There should not be any visible glue, except for a minimal trace amount around the edge of the hole in the end-of-the-plug, around the base of the magnet.
My concern is that part of the glue may either break down or flake off and be pumped through the oil system. While these glue particles may eventually be filtered out by the engine oil filter, before that happens the glue particles will be pumped through various engine bearings: crankshaft, camshaft, VTEC orifices, etc. These glue particles are just not something you want in an engine bearing.
But perhaps I am worrying over-much. After all, oil filters are sealed together with ‘glue’/ epoxy. Just examine inside any oil filter before the next time you install one.
PICTURE: BMW engine drain plug excessive glue
WHERE TO FIND A MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG:
RDX ENGINE OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG: 14mm x 1.5mm x 15mm length – 7.5 threads
My local auto parts places have magnetic drain plugs in various sizes, including one that fits the Acura RDX. This is the same size as all Hondas and Acuras have used for the past 20 years. Either Pep Boys or O’Reilly’s has OIL-TITE brand oil drain plugs in my area. These drain plugs have ceramic magnets.
The neodymium magnetic engine drain plug in my Acura RDX was ordered from an online vendor. There is plenty of room inside the RDX engine oil pan, for the magnet on the new bolt, without touching anything inside the engine oil pan. Internal clearance must always be checked before installing an alternate drain plug.
I have an OIL-TITE ceramic magnetic plug hanging in the RDX power steering oil tank (check this link for more info). I figure if the magnet falls out of the plug, it is not getting past the filter in the bottom of the power steering oil tank:
POST: DIY – Add a Power Steering Replaceable Inline Magnetic Filter:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828859
WHICH KIND OF MAGNET TO BUY?
The stronger the magnet, the smaller the particle it can attract and hold against oil flow. In particular, particles under 10 microns are just so small that a very strong magnetic field is required.
There are two kinds of magnets commonly used in drain plugs: ceramic and neodymium. Neodymium is about 10 times as strong as a ceramic magnetic of the same size. Typical ceramic drain plugs cost about $5. Neodymium drain plugs cost from $12 up to $50 or even more.
PICTURE: relative magnet strength
Ceramic magnets such as my OEM Chevy drain plug magnet, are typically black, which makes it difficult to tell how much material is on the magnet. The stuff that an engine magnet attracts is always black. Not sure why, since it is obviously steel.
The Pep Boys magnetic drain plugs I have purchased contain ceramic magnets, but the magnets are plated with nickel. Makes it very easy to see and remove any particles.
Removing all of the particles from a neodymium magnet can be difficult. But you want to do that so that the next time you will know how many new particles have been created, and if there are any larger size particles. First, wipe off as much as possible or even wash and dry the magnet/ plug. Then use a strip of cheap masking tape, press it against the magnet, and carefully pull off any remaining particles.
NEODYMIUM MAGNETS CAN BE DANGEROUS TO YOUR CAR:
A neodymium magnet is strong enough to damage electronic car parts, such as sensors and computers, or your watch. Just keep the magnet a few inches away from sensitive electronic parts.
Both ceramic and neodymium magnets are somewhat brittle, and can break if dropped. If that happens, do not try to keep using it. They do not cost that much.
Also, a neodymium magnet can damage a ceramic magnet. I stored one ceramic drain plug and one neodymium drain plug together, and the magnets on the plugs were touching. After a couple of weeks, the ceramic magnet had been largely demagnetized.
The following picture shows, left-to-right:
Ø An aftermarket ceramic magnet for my Chevy Blazer 4x4 engine, which can lift the larger screw-driver to the right.
Ø An aftermarket ceramic magnet for my Chevy Blazer 4x4 engine, damaged by storage touching the Blazer neodymium magnet to the right. Now it can only lift the paper clip to the left.
Ø An aftermarket neodymium magnet for my Chevy Blazer 4x4 engine. It can lift (barely) the punch with the blue handles.
Ø An aftermarket neodymium magnet for my RDX engine. It can very easily lift the punch, all solid steel except for the blue plastic coating on the steel handles.
PICTURE: 4 drain plugs of various strengths
WHAT ABOUT MAKING YOUR OWN MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG?
I have seen online posts of people using computer magnets to ‘make’ their own drain plug. I would strongly discourage this practice.
Purchase your magnetic drain plug from a local auto parts store, or from an established online car engine drain plug retailer. The magnet will be rated for hot engine oil and the high temperatures in an engine.
A department store magnet will likely be ceramic. It may simply disintegrate in the hot oil of your engine – not a good result. A ceramic magnet is steel magnetic particles suspended in some non-magnetic medium. The flat magnet inside my Chevy transmission seems to be a flexible plastic material, with the suspended magnetic particles in it. It is meant to endure hot oil. Department store magnets can be compressed particles held together with a binding material that will not withstand hot oil. Think of a vitamin pill which is solid in your hand, but which falls-apart (dissolves) inside your stomach.
Only high-temperature rated neodymium magnets should be used in your car engine. Hardware store (such as ACE Hardware) neodymium magnets loose their magnetism above 150 degrees F. That means that just about the time your engine oil reaches normal operating temperature, any magnetic particles clumped on the magnet will be released all-at-once, back into your engine. This also applies to any magnet that you find on a computer hard drive, etc.
I simply cannot stress just how important it is to use only a magnet which is specifically meant to be used inside a car engine.
OFF-TOPIC: magnets for the fuel-line
It is common practice to use magnets on diesel-fuel filters. The magnet ‘filters’ out small metal particles that are not removed by the actual fuel filter, and limits abrasive-wear to the fuel-injectors. Alas, there is no external fuel filter on the RDX, just a filter inside the fuel tank, so there is no place to put a magnet(s).
----eof
OK, I am just making a little joke, based on the old idea of using cow-magnets on the fuel-line, to magnetize the fuel (was supposed to improve gas mileage). Nutty ideas for improving gas-mileage are hardly new.
Actually, I am suggesting that you use magnets for additional/ auxiliary particle filtering of engine oil:
1) use a magnetic engine oil drain plug, and
2) use magnet(s) inside or on the oil filter (discussed in next post).
DANGER: use safety Jack-Stands if you jack up your car, and take other safety measures when working on your car. A falling car can maim or kill you.
GOAL: an engine-turbo life of 250K miles (400K kilometers), in a 2009 Acura RDX driven 90% of the time in trips under 10 miles, often under 2 miles. That is severe service since the engine oil seldom warms to full operating temperature, especially during the winter.
SUMMARY:
These are the reasons to use magnets for particle filtering, in addition to the oil filter. An engine magnetic drain plug is an easy and inexpensive addition to your RDX:
Ø All manufacturers, including Honda/ Acura, use magnets in various automotive oiling systems. GM has placed engine oil drain plug magnets in all car models for at least the past 15 years.
Ø The small size of the RDX engine oil filter prevents efficient filtering with even a premium filter, compared to an inexpensive large size filter. This statement is based on information printed right on the oil filter packaging of leading filter manufacturers: Puralator, Mobil-1, and Fram as specific examples.
Ø Unfiltered particles have the potential to damage turbo bearings, which are roller/ ball type and there is some actual metal-to-metal contract, unlike engine Crankshaft bearings, which ride on a film of oil (no metal-to-metal contact in theory).
Ø Unfiltered particles also have the potential to damage the tiny holes in the VTEC system, from abrasive flow-action. The RDX has mesh screens in the VTEC system for a reason.
Ø Magnets will attract much smaller particles than can be filtered by normal oil filters. And the magnetic particles are the most damaging, since they are steel and the hardest. Plus magnets have no effect on filter flow-rate, which can be affected by a high-efficiency oil-filtering medium when used in a small/ tiny oil-filter canister.
HOW DOES MY RDX MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG PERFORM?
The pictures below show the neodymium engine drain plug from my RDX. The plug was installed on my RDX for 1703 miles, between mile 20,679 and mile 22,382, and between 25 Aug 2011 and 20 Nov 2011.
A K&N oil filter was installed during that time, with two small magnets inside. More information concerning the engine oil filter and magnets, will be discussed in a later post in this same thread.
My point is that the amount of material on the drain plug was in addition to a similar amount of material on each of the two magnets inside the oil filter.
The oil used was Mobil-1 Extended Performance 5W30. Keep in mind that this vehicle is primarily used only in trips under 10 miles: commuting to work and to the grocery mart or an exercise class. I consider that severe service.
PICTURE: RDX engine drain plug
The amount of material on the drain plug, is what I would call ‘light’, and has been about the same for all oil changes to date. The tan-yellow color on the magnet shaft is oil. The black stuff is metal, composed of particles too small to see individually. The amount of black material on the RDX magnet is more than I usually see on the OEM magnet in my Chevy 4x4 at 100K miles. However, the difference may be that the Chevy magnet is ceramic, and the RDX magnet is neodymium, which is 10 times more powerful than ceramic.
PICTURE: RDX engine drain plug
The tan-yellow color on the paper towel is oil. The black is metal particles from the magnet on the drain plug. Note that there is no obvious epoxy around the magnet.
PICTURE: RDX engine drain plug
The next picture is from a KTM motorcycle engine drain plug. Now, if you see metal this large on your RDX drain plug, it is time to worry. I have occasionally seen only one or two particles that size on my Chevy drain plug, but never any on the RDX magnet.
PICTURE: KTM motorcycle engine drain plug
WHICH CAR MANUFACTURERS USE MAGNETS IN VARIOUS OIL SYSTEMS?
All of them.
Both of my GM Chevy vehicles have OEM factory engine magnetic drain plugs, transmission pan magnet, transfer case magnet, power steering pump magnet, and rear differential case magnet
My 2009 RDX has an OEM factory transmission magnetic drain plug, transmission case internal magnet, and rear differential magnetic drain plug.
So why doesn’t every car manufacturer use magnets in every oil system, on every car? I think that a comment made by someone rebuilding a Chevy Corvette Muncie manual transmission is appropriate here. The trans re-builder’s comment was along the lines of “well, if you had told a 1960s Chevy engineer that we would be rebuilding 40-50 year old Corvette transmissions someday, he would have thought you were crazy. You were supposed to just buy another car every two years, and many of us did just that”.
Often, even when a magnet is included, as inside the RDX transmission, there is no way to remove and clean the magnet, allowing metallic particles to build-up ‘forever’.
So do you think Acura cares if your RDX lasts for 250K miles? There is a reason for the specified length of the mileage/ year warranty on the RDX.
HOW EFFICIENT IS THE RDX ENGINE OIL FILTER?
Please, if you wish to discuss comparison of specific oil filter brands, there are hundreds of existing online threads where you can do that. I am not comparing filters per se but only repeating what has been published by the filter manufacturers themselves, right on the filter package. I am not aware of any valid information regarding oil filter efficiency, other than that printed by the manufacturers. Anything else is just base speculation.
These particular filter brands below are listed, because I have used these brands, and because these manufacturers have provided the information which allows discussion. The idea here is to give some indication of the level of efficiency of an RDX size filter.
1) The Purolator Pure One small/ tiny RDX filter is rated at 40 microns and 99.9%, and their Classic RDX filter is rated at 40 microns and 97.5%. Other small Purolator filters ratings are estimated, based on the test done on this specific RDX filter.
On the other hand, the medium size Purolator Pure One filter for my Chevy V6 is rated at 20 microns and 99.9% efficiency. Clearly, filter size matters because it allows more filtering medium, for greater efficiency in filtering smaller particles. This is an estimated rating based on a test done on the PL-30001, a larger filter that is the size of the Fram PH8A, which is 1.5 times the size of the Chevy filter, and 3-times the size of the RDX filter.
2) The current Mobil M1-110 RDX filter has an estimated rating of 99.9% based on a test done on an M1-301 filter, but no micron size is given, making the rating meaningless. Mobil has previously published (2007) that their filters are 99.6% efficient at 25 microns, but again, that rating is based on a test done on the M1-301 filter, about the size of a Fram PH8A. The small M1-110 is a popular filter to use on many large motorcycle engines. I personally want a car sized filter on my cars. You can check the Mobil-1 filter efficiency rating for yourself here:
LINK: Mobil-1 oil filter efficiency @25 microns
http://www.mobil.com/Shared-Files-LCW/mobil-1-ep-oil-filter-design_amer_en.pdf
3) The Fram Tough Guard TG7317-RDX filter is rated at 20 microns and 99.0% efficiency. The Fram Extra Guard RDX filter is rated at 20 microns and 95.0% efficiency. Again, the RDX filter rating is an estimated rating based on tests performed on a different filter, the TG6607, which is actually smaller than the TG7317-RDX filter, so that rating may be very valid.
4) As another data point, to show that medium size filters can be efficient, the AC Delco UltraGuard Gold filters are made for late-model Corvettes. One of these just happens to fit the V6 in my Chevy 4x4. The Gold filter for my 4x4 is rated at 98.0% at 8-10 microns. This is the highest efficiency rated filter of which I am aware. This filter is only half the size of a Fram PH8A, but still 1.5 times larger than the RDX filter size. All other AC Delco oil filters are rated at 98% and 25-30 microns.
So GM apparently thinks that a high efficiency filter is a good idea for Corvettes, but not for any other GM vehicle.
PICTURE: micron size comparison
Again, note that the Purolator filter that fits my Chevy 4x4 is rated at 20 microns, but the smaller Purolator RDX filter is rated at only 40 microns. And note that while 40 microns may be only twice the diameter of 20 microns, the particle is actually much bigger in volume, as shown in the picture above.
HOW IMPORTANT IS A SMALL DIFFERENCE IN FILTER EFFICIENCY?
The Purolator Pure One filter which fits the RDX, is rated 99.9% at 40-microns. The Purolator Classic filter which fits the RDX, is rated at 97.5% at 40-microns.
While the difference between 97.5% and 99.9% may seem small, it means that the less efficient filter will pass about 25 times as many 40-micron particles as the more efficient one, for the Purolator filters. Understand, that is not 25% more particles, IT MEANS 25-TIMES AS MANY or 2,500% more particles.
The difference between 95.0% and 99.0% means that the less efficient filter will pass 5 times as many particles as the more efficient filter. And it follows that 99.9% efficiency is 10 times more efficient than merely 99.0% efficiency. And that should give some idea of why that last 0.9% is important.
So, one more example. The difference between 95.0% and 99.9% means that the less efficient filter will pass 50-times as many particles as the more efficient one. This is why all of the newer filters are now giving a rating of not just 99.0% but 99.9%, but most often, there is no corresponding micron size given. Without that micron size as well, the percentage rating is worthless. You need to know just how small the particles are, that are being filtered out.
SMALL OIL FILTERS ARE LESS EFFICIENT THAN LARGE FILTERS:
My intent here is to indicate that small filters like the RDX size, are less efficient than larger filters that are the size of the Fram PH8A. A Fram PH8A filter fits the 5-liter V8 Ford engine in my old van. It is 1.5 times the size of the filter in my current Chevy 4x4, and 3 times the size of the filter in my RDX.
RDX filter = (3.75H x 2.7D inches) = 21.5 cu-in
Chevy 4x4 filter = (5.1H x 3.0D inches) = 36.0 cu-in
Ford Fram PH8A filter = (5.7H x 3.6D inches) = 58.0 cu-in
It should be obvious that a larger filter is more efficient, but perhaps it is not. A larger filter-can allows more internal filtering material, and the additional filtering material allows more efficient filtering without reducing flow-through of the oil. This is reflected in the ISO-4548 multi-pass test currently used to rate filters efficiency.
And that is why the filter manufacturers are generally using a larger filter to perform the actual tests, and then estimating the efficiency of their smaller filters, based on a test on a large filter.
NOTE: small filter flow-through restriction is somewhat offset if a synthetic or partial synthetic medium is used, instead of treated-cellulose (paper). So some brands of small filters will be much more efficient than other brands, both in terms of flow-through as well as particle filtering efficiency.
The following chart is obviously from AC Delco, since their UltraGuard Gold filter is rated the best at flow rate. Still, I find the comparison to be of interest, because it shows that the Gold filter, with 100% synthetic filtering medium, can have both high flow-rate as well as high particle filtering efficiency. That is reflected in the dealer price of $24 each for the Gold filters.
CHART: filter flow-rate
DOESN’T THE RDX ENGINE OIL FILTER WORK WELL ENOUGH BY ITSELF?
Well, I hope that it is clear from the previous sections, that information regarding the actual efficiency and micron-rating for a specific RDX oil filter is rarely given. But it would seem that quality/ premium filters for the RDX will filter most particles larger than about 20 to 40 microns, but at varying levels of efficiency.
It is generally acknowledged that 40-micron size particles and larger can damage an engine over time. And most filters will remove the majority of 40-micron particles or larger. I am personally more concerned about the turbo-bearings than the engine bearings.
Are particles under 40 microns damaging? Acura thinks that they are to the transmission, hence the trans magnetic drain plug and trans internal case magnet. The RDX turbo does not use the same type of bearing that the engine uses. Engine bearings in theory do not allow metal-to-metal contact, except during start-up. Oil pressure/ flow prevents engine bearing metal contact. Turbo bearings are different, and grind even the smallest particles between the bearing rollers/ balls and the bearing races.
Finally, there is the RDX VTEC system, which uses oil pressure to control cam/ valve timing. This system uses mesh filters, located on the engine block. Why? If there is an efficient oil filter, why are these mesh screens necessary? What is the abrasive effect of high-pressure oil with suspended particles flowing through the tiny orifices of the VTEC system? I do not know.
I have chosen to add both drain plug magnet and oil filter magnet, to capture the particles smaller than those captured by the oil filter.
SOME MINOR CONCERNS ABOUT DRAIN PLUG MAGNETS:
I have been using an engine magnetic drain plug since the first RDX oil change at 4K miles, until now at 27K miles. The oil is changed approximately every 1800 miles and 3-months. There is always a small amount of material on the engine drain plug magnet. The RDX drain plug is steel, the magnet is neodymium type, and the magnet is glued in place (not crimped).
Still, I do have some reservations concerning the use of drain plug magnets, as follows:
Ø The GM and Subaru OEM engine magnetic drain plugs that I have seen have the magnet secured mechanically. That is, the magnet is ‘crimped’ in place (secured) with metal, and no glue.
Ø The Acura RDX transmission and rear differential magnetic drain plugs have the magnet secured mechanically by crimping. I see no evidence of glue.
Ø All aftermarket magnetic drain plugs that I have seen have the magnet held in place only with ‘glue’, probably some sort of epoxy. A high-power neodymium magnet is unlikely to fall out of a steel drain plug, even if the epoxy fails. A low-power ceramic magnet might.
Ø If the drain plug itself is not magnetic, such as aluminum or titanium, and if the epoxy holding the magnet fails, the magnet can attach to some moving engine part and cause damage. I would only buy a steel drain plug with a magnet.
PICTURE: Subaru drain plug w/ crimped magnet
WHY DO MANUFACTURERS USE GLUE TO SECURE THE MAGNET?
The short answer is that it is easier and cheaper than the mechanical method used by OEM car makers. And here is what can happen if glue or some other method is not used to secure the magnet. The picture shows the original ceramic magnet which fell out of the original drain plug, and the broken gear tooth which resulted, stuck to the end of the replacement drain plug neodymium magnet.
PICTURE: Harley broken drain plug magnet
I have purchased about 12 different magnetic drain plugs from four different sources. There is a great deal of variance in quality control, even from the same vendor. Most often the amount of glue used to secure the magnet to the plug is visibly excessive, oozing out around the base of the magnet and onto the plug. If possible, examine carefully the plug before purchase. There should not be any visible glue, except for a minimal trace amount around the edge of the hole in the end-of-the-plug, around the base of the magnet.
My concern is that part of the glue may either break down or flake off and be pumped through the oil system. While these glue particles may eventually be filtered out by the engine oil filter, before that happens the glue particles will be pumped through various engine bearings: crankshaft, camshaft, VTEC orifices, etc. These glue particles are just not something you want in an engine bearing.
But perhaps I am worrying over-much. After all, oil filters are sealed together with ‘glue’/ epoxy. Just examine inside any oil filter before the next time you install one.
PICTURE: BMW engine drain plug excessive glue
WHERE TO FIND A MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG:
RDX ENGINE OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG: 14mm x 1.5mm x 15mm length – 7.5 threads
My local auto parts places have magnetic drain plugs in various sizes, including one that fits the Acura RDX. This is the same size as all Hondas and Acuras have used for the past 20 years. Either Pep Boys or O’Reilly’s has OIL-TITE brand oil drain plugs in my area. These drain plugs have ceramic magnets.
The neodymium magnetic engine drain plug in my Acura RDX was ordered from an online vendor. There is plenty of room inside the RDX engine oil pan, for the magnet on the new bolt, without touching anything inside the engine oil pan. Internal clearance must always be checked before installing an alternate drain plug.
I have an OIL-TITE ceramic magnetic plug hanging in the RDX power steering oil tank (check this link for more info). I figure if the magnet falls out of the plug, it is not getting past the filter in the bottom of the power steering oil tank:
POST: DIY – Add a Power Steering Replaceable Inline Magnetic Filter:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828859
WHICH KIND OF MAGNET TO BUY?
The stronger the magnet, the smaller the particle it can attract and hold against oil flow. In particular, particles under 10 microns are just so small that a very strong magnetic field is required.
There are two kinds of magnets commonly used in drain plugs: ceramic and neodymium. Neodymium is about 10 times as strong as a ceramic magnetic of the same size. Typical ceramic drain plugs cost about $5. Neodymium drain plugs cost from $12 up to $50 or even more.
PICTURE: relative magnet strength
Ceramic magnets such as my OEM Chevy drain plug magnet, are typically black, which makes it difficult to tell how much material is on the magnet. The stuff that an engine magnet attracts is always black. Not sure why, since it is obviously steel.
The Pep Boys magnetic drain plugs I have purchased contain ceramic magnets, but the magnets are plated with nickel. Makes it very easy to see and remove any particles.
Removing all of the particles from a neodymium magnet can be difficult. But you want to do that so that the next time you will know how many new particles have been created, and if there are any larger size particles. First, wipe off as much as possible or even wash and dry the magnet/ plug. Then use a strip of cheap masking tape, press it against the magnet, and carefully pull off any remaining particles.
NEODYMIUM MAGNETS CAN BE DANGEROUS TO YOUR CAR:
A neodymium magnet is strong enough to damage electronic car parts, such as sensors and computers, or your watch. Just keep the magnet a few inches away from sensitive electronic parts.
Both ceramic and neodymium magnets are somewhat brittle, and can break if dropped. If that happens, do not try to keep using it. They do not cost that much.
Also, a neodymium magnet can damage a ceramic magnet. I stored one ceramic drain plug and one neodymium drain plug together, and the magnets on the plugs were touching. After a couple of weeks, the ceramic magnet had been largely demagnetized.
The following picture shows, left-to-right:
Ø An aftermarket ceramic magnet for my Chevy Blazer 4x4 engine, which can lift the larger screw-driver to the right.
Ø An aftermarket ceramic magnet for my Chevy Blazer 4x4 engine, damaged by storage touching the Blazer neodymium magnet to the right. Now it can only lift the paper clip to the left.
Ø An aftermarket neodymium magnet for my Chevy Blazer 4x4 engine. It can lift (barely) the punch with the blue handles.
Ø An aftermarket neodymium magnet for my RDX engine. It can very easily lift the punch, all solid steel except for the blue plastic coating on the steel handles.
PICTURE: 4 drain plugs of various strengths
WHAT ABOUT MAKING YOUR OWN MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG?
I have seen online posts of people using computer magnets to ‘make’ their own drain plug. I would strongly discourage this practice.
Purchase your magnetic drain plug from a local auto parts store, or from an established online car engine drain plug retailer. The magnet will be rated for hot engine oil and the high temperatures in an engine.
A department store magnet will likely be ceramic. It may simply disintegrate in the hot oil of your engine – not a good result. A ceramic magnet is steel magnetic particles suspended in some non-magnetic medium. The flat magnet inside my Chevy transmission seems to be a flexible plastic material, with the suspended magnetic particles in it. It is meant to endure hot oil. Department store magnets can be compressed particles held together with a binding material that will not withstand hot oil. Think of a vitamin pill which is solid in your hand, but which falls-apart (dissolves) inside your stomach.
Only high-temperature rated neodymium magnets should be used in your car engine. Hardware store (such as ACE Hardware) neodymium magnets loose their magnetism above 150 degrees F. That means that just about the time your engine oil reaches normal operating temperature, any magnetic particles clumped on the magnet will be released all-at-once, back into your engine. This also applies to any magnet that you find on a computer hard drive, etc.
I simply cannot stress just how important it is to use only a magnet which is specifically meant to be used inside a car engine.
OFF-TOPIC: magnets for the fuel-line
It is common practice to use magnets on diesel-fuel filters. The magnet ‘filters’ out small metal particles that are not removed by the actual fuel filter, and limits abrasive-wear to the fuel-injectors. Alas, there is no external fuel filter on the RDX, just a filter inside the fuel tank, so there is no place to put a magnet(s).
----eof
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dr427 (02-09-2013)
08-12-2012, 01:36 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
ENGINE Oil Filter MAGNET(s)
DANGER: use safety Jack-Stands if you jack up your car, and take other safety measures when working on your car. A falling car can maim or kill you.
The only way to remove a significant amount of oil-contamination wear-material, that is not being removed by the oil filter, is by using MAGNETS with the OIL FILTER. The following information is what I have personally done with my own RDX, but I have no relationship with any of the product manufacturers mentioned here.
In my original post (in this thread), I tried to explain why I think that the RDX oil filter is not removing enough of the smaller oil contamination particles, to prevent eventual long term wear. The RDX oil filter, like most modern vehicle oil filters, is considerably smaller than the typical oil filters used 10-20 years ago. And because of the small size, just cannot filter efficiently, no matter how good is the synthetic filtering materials used.
An engine oil-pan drain plug magnet will let you determine for yourself that the Acura RDX is generating some amount of particles, that the oil filter cannot remove. But a drain plug magnet can only remove those particles which fall to the bottom of the oil pan, and are also within a very close proximity to the magnet.
So what you see on a drain plug magnet, is only a small percentage of the actual amount of un-filtered particles generated by the RDX engine. In two different vehicles, I have found that using oil filter magnets has no effect on the amount of material collected on the oil pan drain plug magnet. That does not seem logical to me, but that is my observation.
If you want to remove significant amounts of un-filtered particles, an oil filter magnet is required. All of the engine oil eventually flows through the oil filter, and past any added magnet. And any magnet will not increase the flow-restriction of the oil filter. Also, oil filter magnets will continue filtering even when the filter itself goes into by-pass mode, and is not performing any filtering itself at all.
And you can use magnets on your filter, even if you do not change your own oil – see last section below in this post for suggestions.
NOTE: This post will only discuss adding magnet(s) to the oil filter. There is no way of which I am aware that a consumer can really determine the efficiency of an engine oil filter, other than to rely upon the published information from the filter manufacturers. Therefore, I cannot answer questions or comments concerning which oil filter is best, because I simply do not know. There are literally thousands of other online threads where you can discuss filter comparisons.
HOW MUCH MAGNETIC MATERIAL DOES MY RDX GENERATE ON THE OIL FILTER MAGNETS?
The picture below shows the two small bar-magnets which were installed inside a K&N brand RDX filter. The filter was on my RDX for 0,751 miles (not a misprint), between mile 24,174 and mile 24,925, and between 24 Feb 2012 and 12 Apr 2012. The oil used was Mobil-1 Extended Performance 5W30. The short OCI (oil change interval) was because the car was about to go on a long vacation trip, and I normally change oil at 2K mile intervals.
Keep in mind that this vehicle is used primarily in trips under 10 miles: commuting to work and to the grocery mart. That means the engine oil seldom reaches normal operating temperature. And that there are many ‘cold’ starts per average OCI (oil change interval). Cold starts cause much more engine wear than normal driving operation. I consider that severe service.
This picture shows the relative size of the magnet on the drain plug, and the two mini-bar magnets used inside the K&N oil filter.
PICTURE: RDX drain plug and two internal magnets from oil filter
The next two pictures show the material collected on both the mini-magnets, as well as the drain-plug magnet. Note that the drain-plug picture is from an OCI interval of 1703 miles back in August 2011. I did not get a picture of the drain plug at the same OCI as the filter magnets, but the drain plug looks about the same as it always does.
The mini-bar magnets are ceramic, and the drain-plug magnet is neodymium type. When looking at the bar magnets, keep in mind the following:
Ø Both bar magnets began with all surfaces mirror polished.
Ø The uneven surface in the pictures shows the depth of material on the magnet. In removing the magnets from inside the filter, most of the material on the magnets ended up on my fingers, the paper towel, and the steel pliers.
Ø Even though the magnets are ceramic, they are stronger than ‘normal’ craft ceramic magnets. They stick to any metal (pliers) and each other so strongly, that most of the material was wiped off the magnet edges, and one magnet, when I was handling them for the pictures.
Ø The white flecks and individual particles on the magnets, are actually dust from the paper towel as I tried to position the magnets for picture taking, and they kept tumbling and sticking to each other, before I finally got them positioned for a picture. The actual magnetic material is all too small to see individual particles. It just looks like sludge.
Ø The total amount of material on the two magnets, was equal to the maximum depth shown on the one magnet to the right side of the picture, on all sides except for the side (bottom in the pic) stuck to the inside filter core. Also, there was considerable material stuck to the filter core itself, especially around the area near the two magnets. The two magnets were installed 180 degrees apart, so that the entire filter core was magnetized, and collected oil contamination material.
Ø I estimate that the total material on the two magnets, and the filter core, was at least 10 times the amount of material on the drain plug magnet. Remember, this is on a vehicle with 24K miles, gently driven – brakes are 1/3 worn at 27K current miles. But this vehicle is driven in severe conditions (commuting 10 miles one way each day in city traffic).
Ø I have been using these magnets on the RDX, since the first oil change at 4K miles, and the amount of material on the magnets is always about the same. My normal average OCI is 1,800 miles.
Ø What you see below I consider normal accumulation of wear material. Try to imagine what that amount of material would do to the engine (and turbo), if allowed to circulate for another 3K miles, without being removed, before the next oil change. Remember, this is the material after only 750 miles. The MID in this RDX normally reports an oil change request, at 15% oil life left at 3,600 miles.
PICTURE: oil filter bar magnets
PICTURE: RDX drain plug magnet
RDX RELATIVE FILTER SIZE:
The FRAM PH-8 oil filter, which fits a 1970s vintage Ford small block 5-liter engine, is what I consider a ‘normal’ sized filter. It is as much larger than the Chevy V6 filter shown below, as the V6 filter is larger than the RDX filter. A PH-8 has about 3-times the volume of the RDX filter, allowing for more filtering material, without restricting oil flow.
And before you respond that the RDX engine is half the displacement of the Ford small block, well, the RDX engine produces twice the horsepower of the 70s Ford engine. The RDX engine needs (and deserves) proper oil filtering protection.
Modern engine oil filter size is a result of marketing/ design departments and consequent engine-bay packaging requirements, rather than a result of the required functional protection of the engine. As an engineer, I am simply amazed that current engine oil-filters protect as well as they do.
PICTURE: Chevy V6 and RDX oil filters
TYPES OF MAGNETS:
In many online threads that I read, concerning use of oil filter or drain plug magnets, someone suggests using magnets from a PC hard drive. DO NOT DO THIS. Unless you are certain that the magnets are rated for very high temperature use (and how can you be certain), the magnet is likely to lose its magnetic capability when the engine (and oil) reach operating temperature. That will release any magnetic material being held, as a large ‘clump’ back into the oil flow – very bad. In other words, most magnets lose most of their magnetism, sometimes permanently, when they are subjected to temperatures over about 150F.
If you really wish to do your own experimenting and buy your own magnets, at least learn the rating system used for both ceramic and neodymium type magnets, and make your purchase accordingly. Craft store, and most online individual magnets sold, are rated only up to about 180F at best. That is well below the temp that your engine oil normally reaches.
Here is a good link, that provides valid information, various grades of magnets, and actual certification of neodymium magnets that they sell:
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/uses.asp
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/neomaginfo.asp - specifications for Neodymium magnets
TYPES OF OIL FILTER MAGNETIC PRODUCTS:
These are the basic types of magnetic oil filter products of which I am aware. Please understand that the following is to be considered a survey of products, not any kind of endorsement of any particular brand.
Ø SMALL BAR MAGNETS INSERTED INSIDE THE FILTER CENTER CORE: this type cannot (should-not) be reused. This type can only be used if the oil filter has a center core that is metal, not plastic. The filter center core is partly magnetized by the attached Bar Magnet, so that magnetic particles are attracted to both the magnets themselves, as well as the entire center core of the filter.
Ø FLAT WASHER MAGNET INSERTED AT THE OIL ENTRY-END OF THE FILTER: this type CAN be reused.
Ø MAGNETS STUCK TO THE OUTSIDE END OF THE FILTER: not recommended for any vehicle.
Ø VARIOUS SHAPED MAGNETS ATTACHED TO THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER OF THE FILTER: not recommended for the RDX, may be a good choice for certain other vehicles. This type CAN be reused.
NOTE: some vehicles use an oil filter without any by-pass filter. In these vehicles the by-pass valve is located either in the engine block, or the filter mount. In by-pass mode, no oil flows through the oil filter at all. And therefore, a magnet on or in the oil filter will not have any effect, when the by-pass valve opens. My Chevy truck uses an oil filter without a by-pass valve. The by-pass valve is located inside the remote filter mount.
PICTURE: oil filter and magnet positions
The RED ‘blocks’ in the picture above represent magnets, and the various positions in which magnets can be installed.
DO NOT USE A MAGNET ON THE END OF THE RDX FILTER:
Any magnet attached to the end of any oil filter will not be effective. If there is a by-pass valve in the bottom-end of the filter, the only time that oil flows by the oil filter end, is when that by-pass valve is open. See the diagram above.
The RDX oil filter contains a by-pass valve in the ‘bottom-end’ of the filter. Also, a very strong magnet may affect operation of the RDX spring-operated filter by-pass valve – that would be bad. Finally, any magnet stuck on the outside-end of the RDX filter risks being dislodged, because the RDX filter hangs down so low.
Ford oil filters (some models) have the by-pass valve in the attachment (screw-on) end of the filter. This prevents oil wash over the filter paper and filtered particles, during by-pass mode. Oil flow at the end of the filter (bottom), during normal operation, will depend upon how the filter material is attached at the bottom of the filter.
My Chevy has an oil filter without a by-pass valve. When there is no filter by-pass valve, the by-pass valve is located either in the engine block filter mount, or in the remote filter mount. In by-pass mode no oil at all flows through the filter. During normal filter operation oil flow to the filter-bottom-end will depend upon the filter construction. Usually, the filter material is glued to an end-cap, which is attached to the bottom of the filter. Oil does flow through the filter material at the end of the filter, but the end-cap isolates any magnet on the end of the filter, from this oil flow. So any magnet stuck to the filter end is useless.
DO NOT USE ANY MAGNET ATTACHED TO THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER OF THE RDX OIL FILTER:
This type of product will not be effective on the RDX oil filter. Anyway, I am not aware of any magnetic product which will actually fit between the RDX filter body, and the aluminum filter housing-canister. But since these products can be reused, they may be considered for use on other vehicles than the RDX.
Most magnetic products which attach to the outside of an oil filter are flat, and will not provide adequate magnetic gauss transfer to the inside plane of the filter body, where oil-contamination magnetic particles are to be trapped. That is because flat magnets just do not fit tightly enough to the contour of the small diameter filter body. If you choose to use this type of product, on a vehicle other then the RDX, choose one with contoured magnets, or with many small magnets, so that the magnets fit tightly to the filter body.
PICTURE: FilterMag external filter
THE PURPOSE OF THE RDX OIL FILTER HOUSING:
The aluminum housing-canister surrounding the RDX oil filter, is there as a heat shield. The aluminum reflects heat from the nearby exhaust pipe. (Try polishing it for better heat reflection?) And the air space between the aluminum canister and the steel oil filter body, provides heat insulation. Heating the oil filter will heat the oil flowing through the filter.
The RDX oil filter air-insulation works in the same manner as the RDX battery box. A simple plastic box surrounds the battery, with a small air-insulation space between the box and the battery. There is also an air-flow shield between the battery-box and the engine, to direct air exhaust from the back of the radiator, away from the battery-box.
Any magnet or magnet-case which will fit between the RDX oil filter and the aluminum filter case, will decrease the effectiveness of the air-space insulation that the filter case provides, by providing heat-transfer through the magnet itself, from the exhaust pipe to the oil filter.
If you want to improve the heat insulation for the RDX oil filter, use racing type mylar reflective insulation on the outside of the oil filter case. That will reflect away the heat from the exhaust down-pipe, as well as the engine block. This is the sort of heat shield used on vehicle engine starters, which are located next to an exhaust manifold. Of course, I do not know how well any RDX filter housing insulation will withstand normal mud and snow accumulation, so I have not yet tried this.
SMALL BAR MAGNETS WHICH ARE INSERTED INSIDE THE FILTER CENTER CORE:
On my RDX, I am currently using two small ceramic magnets inside an old style Mobil-1 or K&N filter. I have been using these magnets on both my RDX and my Chevy V6 filters for the past 3-years. Here is the online link to the manufacturer:
PICTURE: Magna-Guard oil filter magnets
Single or twin-magnets can be purchased from a local bike (motorcycle) shop, as shown by the packaging in the picture above. I purchased 10 large magnets online for $25 and 18 pairs of small magnets online for $45. Two small magnets are equal to one large size magnet.
There is currently no oil filter available for the RDX, with a ‘flat’ center core, so I will no longer be using this product in my RDX filters.
I use a single large size magnet in my Chevy oil filter. There are still appropriate flat-core filters available from Mobil-1 and GM/ ACdelco for my Chevy, so I will continue to use this bar-magnets in the filters for my Chevy.
Note in the following picture of an old style Mobil-1 filter for the RDX, what I am calling a ‘flat’ center core. The magnet must attach and fit tightly to the steel core, in order to properly magnetize the core itself, and to prevent detachment of the magnet during normal oil-flow. Current style RDX Mobil-1 oil filter cores have stamped-louvers instead of holes. And RDX Purolator filters, as another example, have an uneven convoluted core.
Instead of showing a bunch of pictures of filter-cores that are not acceptable, instead look at this picture of the only acceptable filter core-shape for internal magnets. Do not install a magnet directly onto the seam inside the core – right next to the seam is OK.
PICTURE: Mobil-1 filer center core
NOTE: do not push the magnets down inside the filter against the by-pass valve in the bottom of the filter. That may interfere with the valve operation. That is why I use the small short magnets in the RDX filter, and also leave the magnets near the top (screw-on) end of the filter. Also ensure that the magnets do not interfere with the threaded hollow stud upon which the filter is installed (screwed-onto). I measured the length of the threaded stud, and found that the magnets can be left at the very top of the metal center filter core, for the RDX Mobil-1 filters.
FLAT WASHER MAGNET INSERTED AT THE ENTRY END OF THE FILTER:
This is an old OEM design. I mention this because if you are not familiar with this design, you may be concerned about oil filter flow-restriction, or other problem. All of the oil entering the oil filter always flows over and around the magnet, even when the filter by-pass valve opens.
Shown is an OEM Allison transmission spin-on filter (and magnet) with Chevy (and GMC) Duramax Diesel engine. The cost of the magnet itself, is $5-10 each and can be re-used. The magnet is a ceramic type. Do not be confused by the two different filters shown in the picture below. Like everything else, more than one filter is available for this application.
I will note that the oil flow pressure through the Allison transmission spin-on filter and past the magnet, will be lower than the oil pressure/ flow through the RDX engine oil filter. But please read on …
PICTURE: Allison trans oil filter and magnet
The engine oil MagnaFilter uses a similar design, a washer magnet, that is located inside a separate screw-on module. The MagnaFilter module is installed to the original oil filter mount, and then a standard oil filter is installed to the MagnaFilter module. I have found no additional information, such as the type or size of the magnet. Or the construction method of the magnet module. So I cannot comment on the likely effectiveness of this product.
You may like to use this product, but not on the RDX. The RDX filter housing makes use of this product impractical. Also, the standard RDX filter would hang down too low in my opinion, and be subject to road damage from below.
PICTURE: MagnaFilter installation
Dave Ashley and Dan Smith “invented” the Motion-Pro washer magnet around 1998, for use in their various Baja 1000 race vehicles, to improve engine reliability, under the extreme conditions of racing. They have won 17 Baja Offroad Championships. This magnet is a neodymium type, nickel-plated, with 6 poles, reusable up to 5-times. It is available online, or from a local bike (motorcycle) shop.
PICTURE: Motion-Pro washer and cartridge filters
Note that this magnet can be used on cartridge filters as well as spin-on filters. Also note the obvious 6 poles on the ‘dirty’ washer in the picture above.
PICTURE: Motion-Pro washer magnet and drain plug
The clear plastic around the washer in the picture above, is from the package, and is there to ease handling, while taking these pictures. There are two sizes of the Motion-Pro washer magnet. The small size (called 3/4 inch hole) is the correct size for the RDX filter. There is also a larger size with a 1-inch hole. I suppose the large washer-magnet would be appropriate for a large truck oil filter.
Despite its popular use in motorcycle oil filters, Dave and Dan developed this magnet for use in their race-truck oil filters, to enable their engines to finish races. Above is a picture of their 600hp and 140mph Ford F150 race truck. The only thing from an actual F150 is the engine block. Nothing else is even remotely related to a street F150.
Look carefully at this Mobil-1 RDX oil filter, and you will see that there is no clearance problem and no inlet holes are blocked. The plastic piece in the picture, is part of the original packaging, which I left here to ease removal of the magnet from the filter, after taking the picture. The plastic packing is not to be used on the filter during operation.
I have not yet used this washer magnet myself. If using the Motion-Pro magnet in another filter, you need to check for proper clearance.
PICTURE: Mobil-1 RDX filter and Motion-Pro magnet
WHICH OIL FILTER DO I USE and WHY?
On my RDX, I am currently using two small bar magnets inside an old style Mobil-1 or K&N filter. Once I have exhausted (used up) my supply of old style filters, I will use the Motion-Pro internal washer-type magnet (with new style filters).
The K&N filter allows me to easily safety wire it. Both the K&N and the Mobil-1 filters have a very heavy steel outer case as compared to other filters. My concern is that the driver of this RDX has no hesitation to drive 17 miles down a dirt/ sand road in the Navaho Nation reservation, using only 1-2 gears because the road is so rutted. And you were wondering why I consider the transmission in this vehicle suffers severe duty.
Hopefully the heavier (thicker) metal body of the Mobil-1 filter will withstand any rock hit.
Also, both the Mobil-1 and K&N filter are advertised as OK to use for extended oil change intervals. Other filters do not make this claim, and recommend changing the filter at ‘standard’ OEM intervals, typically 7.5K miles, but some cheap filters as short as 3K miles.
I have used Purolator filters on my Chevy 4x4, because I like the price and consider it an acceptable filter. The Purolator filter body-steel is considerably thinner than that for a Mobil-1 filter. But the filter location on my Chevy is protected above/ behind a heavy duty skid plate, and behind the heavy steel front bumper, not hanging down low like on the RDX.
I am currently using either Mobil-1 or ACdelco Ultraguard filters on my Chevy, with a single large internal bar magnet.
HOW DO YOU FIND A GOOD QUALITY FILTER?
Here is a simplistic answer. I define the quality of filters by price, when I cannot find specific published information on filtering efficiency. Again, I am purposely not going to discuss brand because you are perfectly capable of reading what the manufacturers publish, and choosing a filter for yourself.
Ø CHEAP QUALITY: under $5 – I would only use these on a car I planned to sell soon.
Ø MEDIUM QUALITY: $6 – $8
Ø HIGH QUALITY: $11 – $15. These can be purchased online cheaper, if you buy in bulk to avoid (or lower) the shipping. And sometimes special offers are made by the manufacturers.
Ø PREMIUM QUALITY: $20 – and above. The only filter with which I am personally familiar in this category is the ACdelco Ultraguard. But it does not fit the RDX, only a few Corvette models. There are a number of other filters available in this price category, but I really do not know anything about them.
Finally, I consider it better to use a medium quality (not cheap) filter with a magnet, rather than a high quality or premium filter without a magnet. Remember that a magnet is going to capture magnetic particles of ALL sizes that even an expensive filter will miss.
And a magnet operates even during filter by-pass mode. No oil filter is filtering when the by-pass valve is open, due to cold engine oil at startup, or during high RPM engine operation. Please make your own filter choice.
IF YOU DO NOT CHANGE YOUR OWN OIL, YOU CAN STILL USE MAGNETS WITH THE OIL FILTER:
For internal magnets, you can purchase your own oil filter and place magnets inside, then give the oil filter to the shop (dealer or other) for installation. I have done this. I personally would not use an Acura OEM or cheap aftermarket oil filter on my RDX, so I always purchase my own filter.
For external magnets, you can have the oil-change shop remove the magnet from the old filter and give it back to you, or install directly on the new filter. Just remember to ask, or a quick-lube shop will throw out your expensive magnet with the old filter.
Do not remove the external magnet from your filter before driving to the oil change place. All of the magnetic particles being held against the inside of the filter will be immediately released back into the oil system in one huge ‘blob’.
You can also take the external magnet back home with you from the oil-change shop, and install it yourself on the new filter that was installed. Somewhat inconvenient, but not as much as doing the actual oil change yourself.
---EOF
DANGER: use safety Jack-Stands if you jack up your car, and take other safety measures when working on your car. A falling car can maim or kill you.
The only way to remove a significant amount of oil-contamination wear-material, that is not being removed by the oil filter, is by using MAGNETS with the OIL FILTER. The following information is what I have personally done with my own RDX, but I have no relationship with any of the product manufacturers mentioned here.
In my original post (in this thread), I tried to explain why I think that the RDX oil filter is not removing enough of the smaller oil contamination particles, to prevent eventual long term wear. The RDX oil filter, like most modern vehicle oil filters, is considerably smaller than the typical oil filters used 10-20 years ago. And because of the small size, just cannot filter efficiently, no matter how good is the synthetic filtering materials used.
An engine oil-pan drain plug magnet will let you determine for yourself that the Acura RDX is generating some amount of particles, that the oil filter cannot remove. But a drain plug magnet can only remove those particles which fall to the bottom of the oil pan, and are also within a very close proximity to the magnet.
So what you see on a drain plug magnet, is only a small percentage of the actual amount of un-filtered particles generated by the RDX engine. In two different vehicles, I have found that using oil filter magnets has no effect on the amount of material collected on the oil pan drain plug magnet. That does not seem logical to me, but that is my observation.
If you want to remove significant amounts of un-filtered particles, an oil filter magnet is required. All of the engine oil eventually flows through the oil filter, and past any added magnet. And any magnet will not increase the flow-restriction of the oil filter. Also, oil filter magnets will continue filtering even when the filter itself goes into by-pass mode, and is not performing any filtering itself at all.
And you can use magnets on your filter, even if you do not change your own oil – see last section below in this post for suggestions.
NOTE: This post will only discuss adding magnet(s) to the oil filter. There is no way of which I am aware that a consumer can really determine the efficiency of an engine oil filter, other than to rely upon the published information from the filter manufacturers. Therefore, I cannot answer questions or comments concerning which oil filter is best, because I simply do not know. There are literally thousands of other online threads where you can discuss filter comparisons.
HOW MUCH MAGNETIC MATERIAL DOES MY RDX GENERATE ON THE OIL FILTER MAGNETS?
The picture below shows the two small bar-magnets which were installed inside a K&N brand RDX filter. The filter was on my RDX for 0,751 miles (not a misprint), between mile 24,174 and mile 24,925, and between 24 Feb 2012 and 12 Apr 2012. The oil used was Mobil-1 Extended Performance 5W30. The short OCI (oil change interval) was because the car was about to go on a long vacation trip, and I normally change oil at 2K mile intervals.
Keep in mind that this vehicle is used primarily in trips under 10 miles: commuting to work and to the grocery mart. That means the engine oil seldom reaches normal operating temperature. And that there are many ‘cold’ starts per average OCI (oil change interval). Cold starts cause much more engine wear than normal driving operation. I consider that severe service.
This picture shows the relative size of the magnet on the drain plug, and the two mini-bar magnets used inside the K&N oil filter.
PICTURE: RDX drain plug and two internal magnets from oil filter
The next two pictures show the material collected on both the mini-magnets, as well as the drain-plug magnet. Note that the drain-plug picture is from an OCI interval of 1703 miles back in August 2011. I did not get a picture of the drain plug at the same OCI as the filter magnets, but the drain plug looks about the same as it always does.
The mini-bar magnets are ceramic, and the drain-plug magnet is neodymium type. When looking at the bar magnets, keep in mind the following:
Ø Both bar magnets began with all surfaces mirror polished.
Ø The uneven surface in the pictures shows the depth of material on the magnet. In removing the magnets from inside the filter, most of the material on the magnets ended up on my fingers, the paper towel, and the steel pliers.
Ø Even though the magnets are ceramic, they are stronger than ‘normal’ craft ceramic magnets. They stick to any metal (pliers) and each other so strongly, that most of the material was wiped off the magnet edges, and one magnet, when I was handling them for the pictures.
Ø The white flecks and individual particles on the magnets, are actually dust from the paper towel as I tried to position the magnets for picture taking, and they kept tumbling and sticking to each other, before I finally got them positioned for a picture. The actual magnetic material is all too small to see individual particles. It just looks like sludge.
Ø The total amount of material on the two magnets, was equal to the maximum depth shown on the one magnet to the right side of the picture, on all sides except for the side (bottom in the pic) stuck to the inside filter core. Also, there was considerable material stuck to the filter core itself, especially around the area near the two magnets. The two magnets were installed 180 degrees apart, so that the entire filter core was magnetized, and collected oil contamination material.
Ø I estimate that the total material on the two magnets, and the filter core, was at least 10 times the amount of material on the drain plug magnet. Remember, this is on a vehicle with 24K miles, gently driven – brakes are 1/3 worn at 27K current miles. But this vehicle is driven in severe conditions (commuting 10 miles one way each day in city traffic).
Ø I have been using these magnets on the RDX, since the first oil change at 4K miles, and the amount of material on the magnets is always about the same. My normal average OCI is 1,800 miles.
Ø What you see below I consider normal accumulation of wear material. Try to imagine what that amount of material would do to the engine (and turbo), if allowed to circulate for another 3K miles, without being removed, before the next oil change. Remember, this is the material after only 750 miles. The MID in this RDX normally reports an oil change request, at 15% oil life left at 3,600 miles.
PICTURE: oil filter bar magnets
PICTURE: RDX drain plug magnet
RDX RELATIVE FILTER SIZE:
The FRAM PH-8 oil filter, which fits a 1970s vintage Ford small block 5-liter engine, is what I consider a ‘normal’ sized filter. It is as much larger than the Chevy V6 filter shown below, as the V6 filter is larger than the RDX filter. A PH-8 has about 3-times the volume of the RDX filter, allowing for more filtering material, without restricting oil flow.
And before you respond that the RDX engine is half the displacement of the Ford small block, well, the RDX engine produces twice the horsepower of the 70s Ford engine. The RDX engine needs (and deserves) proper oil filtering protection.
Modern engine oil filter size is a result of marketing/ design departments and consequent engine-bay packaging requirements, rather than a result of the required functional protection of the engine. As an engineer, I am simply amazed that current engine oil-filters protect as well as they do.
PICTURE: Chevy V6 and RDX oil filters
TYPES OF MAGNETS:
In many online threads that I read, concerning use of oil filter or drain plug magnets, someone suggests using magnets from a PC hard drive. DO NOT DO THIS. Unless you are certain that the magnets are rated for very high temperature use (and how can you be certain), the magnet is likely to lose its magnetic capability when the engine (and oil) reach operating temperature. That will release any magnetic material being held, as a large ‘clump’ back into the oil flow – very bad. In other words, most magnets lose most of their magnetism, sometimes permanently, when they are subjected to temperatures over about 150F.
If you really wish to do your own experimenting and buy your own magnets, at least learn the rating system used for both ceramic and neodymium type magnets, and make your purchase accordingly. Craft store, and most online individual magnets sold, are rated only up to about 180F at best. That is well below the temp that your engine oil normally reaches.
Here is a good link, that provides valid information, various grades of magnets, and actual certification of neodymium magnets that they sell:
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/uses.asp
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/neomaginfo.asp - specifications for Neodymium magnets
TYPES OF OIL FILTER MAGNETIC PRODUCTS:
These are the basic types of magnetic oil filter products of which I am aware. Please understand that the following is to be considered a survey of products, not any kind of endorsement of any particular brand.
Ø SMALL BAR MAGNETS INSERTED INSIDE THE FILTER CENTER CORE: this type cannot (should-not) be reused. This type can only be used if the oil filter has a center core that is metal, not plastic. The filter center core is partly magnetized by the attached Bar Magnet, so that magnetic particles are attracted to both the magnets themselves, as well as the entire center core of the filter.
Ø FLAT WASHER MAGNET INSERTED AT THE OIL ENTRY-END OF THE FILTER: this type CAN be reused.
Ø MAGNETS STUCK TO THE OUTSIDE END OF THE FILTER: not recommended for any vehicle.
Ø VARIOUS SHAPED MAGNETS ATTACHED TO THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER OF THE FILTER: not recommended for the RDX, may be a good choice for certain other vehicles. This type CAN be reused.
NOTE: some vehicles use an oil filter without any by-pass filter. In these vehicles the by-pass valve is located either in the engine block, or the filter mount. In by-pass mode, no oil flows through the oil filter at all. And therefore, a magnet on or in the oil filter will not have any effect, when the by-pass valve opens. My Chevy truck uses an oil filter without a by-pass valve. The by-pass valve is located inside the remote filter mount.
PICTURE: oil filter and magnet positions
The RED ‘blocks’ in the picture above represent magnets, and the various positions in which magnets can be installed.
DO NOT USE A MAGNET ON THE END OF THE RDX FILTER:
Any magnet attached to the end of any oil filter will not be effective. If there is a by-pass valve in the bottom-end of the filter, the only time that oil flows by the oil filter end, is when that by-pass valve is open. See the diagram above.
The RDX oil filter contains a by-pass valve in the ‘bottom-end’ of the filter. Also, a very strong magnet may affect operation of the RDX spring-operated filter by-pass valve – that would be bad. Finally, any magnet stuck on the outside-end of the RDX filter risks being dislodged, because the RDX filter hangs down so low.
Ford oil filters (some models) have the by-pass valve in the attachment (screw-on) end of the filter. This prevents oil wash over the filter paper and filtered particles, during by-pass mode. Oil flow at the end of the filter (bottom), during normal operation, will depend upon how the filter material is attached at the bottom of the filter.
My Chevy has an oil filter without a by-pass valve. When there is no filter by-pass valve, the by-pass valve is located either in the engine block filter mount, or in the remote filter mount. In by-pass mode no oil at all flows through the filter. During normal filter operation oil flow to the filter-bottom-end will depend upon the filter construction. Usually, the filter material is glued to an end-cap, which is attached to the bottom of the filter. Oil does flow through the filter material at the end of the filter, but the end-cap isolates any magnet on the end of the filter, from this oil flow. So any magnet stuck to the filter end is useless.
DO NOT USE ANY MAGNET ATTACHED TO THE OUTSIDE DIAMETER OF THE RDX OIL FILTER:
This type of product will not be effective on the RDX oil filter. Anyway, I am not aware of any magnetic product which will actually fit between the RDX filter body, and the aluminum filter housing-canister. But since these products can be reused, they may be considered for use on other vehicles than the RDX.
Most magnetic products which attach to the outside of an oil filter are flat, and will not provide adequate magnetic gauss transfer to the inside plane of the filter body, where oil-contamination magnetic particles are to be trapped. That is because flat magnets just do not fit tightly enough to the contour of the small diameter filter body. If you choose to use this type of product, on a vehicle other then the RDX, choose one with contoured magnets, or with many small magnets, so that the magnets fit tightly to the filter body.
PICTURE: FilterMag external filter
THE PURPOSE OF THE RDX OIL FILTER HOUSING:
The aluminum housing-canister surrounding the RDX oil filter, is there as a heat shield. The aluminum reflects heat from the nearby exhaust pipe. (Try polishing it for better heat reflection?) And the air space between the aluminum canister and the steel oil filter body, provides heat insulation. Heating the oil filter will heat the oil flowing through the filter.
The RDX oil filter air-insulation works in the same manner as the RDX battery box. A simple plastic box surrounds the battery, with a small air-insulation space between the box and the battery. There is also an air-flow shield between the battery-box and the engine, to direct air exhaust from the back of the radiator, away from the battery-box.
Any magnet or magnet-case which will fit between the RDX oil filter and the aluminum filter case, will decrease the effectiveness of the air-space insulation that the filter case provides, by providing heat-transfer through the magnet itself, from the exhaust pipe to the oil filter.
If you want to improve the heat insulation for the RDX oil filter, use racing type mylar reflective insulation on the outside of the oil filter case. That will reflect away the heat from the exhaust down-pipe, as well as the engine block. This is the sort of heat shield used on vehicle engine starters, which are located next to an exhaust manifold. Of course, I do not know how well any RDX filter housing insulation will withstand normal mud and snow accumulation, so I have not yet tried this.
SMALL BAR MAGNETS WHICH ARE INSERTED INSIDE THE FILTER CENTER CORE:
On my RDX, I am currently using two small ceramic magnets inside an old style Mobil-1 or K&N filter. I have been using these magnets on both my RDX and my Chevy V6 filters for the past 3-years. Here is the online link to the manufacturer:
PICTURE: Magna-Guard oil filter magnets
Single or twin-magnets can be purchased from a local bike (motorcycle) shop, as shown by the packaging in the picture above. I purchased 10 large magnets online for $25 and 18 pairs of small magnets online for $45. Two small magnets are equal to one large size magnet.
There is currently no oil filter available for the RDX, with a ‘flat’ center core, so I will no longer be using this product in my RDX filters.
I use a single large size magnet in my Chevy oil filter. There are still appropriate flat-core filters available from Mobil-1 and GM/ ACdelco for my Chevy, so I will continue to use this bar-magnets in the filters for my Chevy.
Note in the following picture of an old style Mobil-1 filter for the RDX, what I am calling a ‘flat’ center core. The magnet must attach and fit tightly to the steel core, in order to properly magnetize the core itself, and to prevent detachment of the magnet during normal oil-flow. Current style RDX Mobil-1 oil filter cores have stamped-louvers instead of holes. And RDX Purolator filters, as another example, have an uneven convoluted core.
Instead of showing a bunch of pictures of filter-cores that are not acceptable, instead look at this picture of the only acceptable filter core-shape for internal magnets. Do not install a magnet directly onto the seam inside the core – right next to the seam is OK.
PICTURE: Mobil-1 filer center core
NOTE: do not push the magnets down inside the filter against the by-pass valve in the bottom of the filter. That may interfere with the valve operation. That is why I use the small short magnets in the RDX filter, and also leave the magnets near the top (screw-on) end of the filter. Also ensure that the magnets do not interfere with the threaded hollow stud upon which the filter is installed (screwed-onto). I measured the length of the threaded stud, and found that the magnets can be left at the very top of the metal center filter core, for the RDX Mobil-1 filters.
FLAT WASHER MAGNET INSERTED AT THE ENTRY END OF THE FILTER:
This is an old OEM design. I mention this because if you are not familiar with this design, you may be concerned about oil filter flow-restriction, or other problem. All of the oil entering the oil filter always flows over and around the magnet, even when the filter by-pass valve opens.
Shown is an OEM Allison transmission spin-on filter (and magnet) with Chevy (and GMC) Duramax Diesel engine. The cost of the magnet itself, is $5-10 each and can be re-used. The magnet is a ceramic type. Do not be confused by the two different filters shown in the picture below. Like everything else, more than one filter is available for this application.
I will note that the oil flow pressure through the Allison transmission spin-on filter and past the magnet, will be lower than the oil pressure/ flow through the RDX engine oil filter. But please read on …
PICTURE: Allison trans oil filter and magnet
The engine oil MagnaFilter uses a similar design, a washer magnet, that is located inside a separate screw-on module. The MagnaFilter module is installed to the original oil filter mount, and then a standard oil filter is installed to the MagnaFilter module. I have found no additional information, such as the type or size of the magnet. Or the construction method of the magnet module. So I cannot comment on the likely effectiveness of this product.
You may like to use this product, but not on the RDX. The RDX filter housing makes use of this product impractical. Also, the standard RDX filter would hang down too low in my opinion, and be subject to road damage from below.
PICTURE: MagnaFilter installation
Dave Ashley and Dan Smith “invented” the Motion-Pro washer magnet around 1998, for use in their various Baja 1000 race vehicles, to improve engine reliability, under the extreme conditions of racing. They have won 17 Baja Offroad Championships. This magnet is a neodymium type, nickel-plated, with 6 poles, reusable up to 5-times. It is available online, or from a local bike (motorcycle) shop.
PICTURE: Motion-Pro washer and cartridge filters
Note that this magnet can be used on cartridge filters as well as spin-on filters. Also note the obvious 6 poles on the ‘dirty’ washer in the picture above.
PICTURE: Motion-Pro washer magnet and drain plug
The clear plastic around the washer in the picture above, is from the package, and is there to ease handling, while taking these pictures. There are two sizes of the Motion-Pro washer magnet. The small size (called 3/4 inch hole) is the correct size for the RDX filter. There is also a larger size with a 1-inch hole. I suppose the large washer-magnet would be appropriate for a large truck oil filter.
Despite its popular use in motorcycle oil filters, Dave and Dan developed this magnet for use in their race-truck oil filters, to enable their engines to finish races. Above is a picture of their 600hp and 140mph Ford F150 race truck. The only thing from an actual F150 is the engine block. Nothing else is even remotely related to a street F150.
Look carefully at this Mobil-1 RDX oil filter, and you will see that there is no clearance problem and no inlet holes are blocked. The plastic piece in the picture, is part of the original packaging, which I left here to ease removal of the magnet from the filter, after taking the picture. The plastic packing is not to be used on the filter during operation.
I have not yet used this washer magnet myself. If using the Motion-Pro magnet in another filter, you need to check for proper clearance.
PICTURE: Mobil-1 RDX filter and Motion-Pro magnet
WHICH OIL FILTER DO I USE and WHY?
On my RDX, I am currently using two small bar magnets inside an old style Mobil-1 or K&N filter. Once I have exhausted (used up) my supply of old style filters, I will use the Motion-Pro internal washer-type magnet (with new style filters).
The K&N filter allows me to easily safety wire it. Both the K&N and the Mobil-1 filters have a very heavy steel outer case as compared to other filters. My concern is that the driver of this RDX has no hesitation to drive 17 miles down a dirt/ sand road in the Navaho Nation reservation, using only 1-2 gears because the road is so rutted. And you were wondering why I consider the transmission in this vehicle suffers severe duty.
Hopefully the heavier (thicker) metal body of the Mobil-1 filter will withstand any rock hit.
Also, both the Mobil-1 and K&N filter are advertised as OK to use for extended oil change intervals. Other filters do not make this claim, and recommend changing the filter at ‘standard’ OEM intervals, typically 7.5K miles, but some cheap filters as short as 3K miles.
I have used Purolator filters on my Chevy 4x4, because I like the price and consider it an acceptable filter. The Purolator filter body-steel is considerably thinner than that for a Mobil-1 filter. But the filter location on my Chevy is protected above/ behind a heavy duty skid plate, and behind the heavy steel front bumper, not hanging down low like on the RDX.
I am currently using either Mobil-1 or ACdelco Ultraguard filters on my Chevy, with a single large internal bar magnet.
HOW DO YOU FIND A GOOD QUALITY FILTER?
Here is a simplistic answer. I define the quality of filters by price, when I cannot find specific published information on filtering efficiency. Again, I am purposely not going to discuss brand because you are perfectly capable of reading what the manufacturers publish, and choosing a filter for yourself.
Ø CHEAP QUALITY: under $5 – I would only use these on a car I planned to sell soon.
Ø MEDIUM QUALITY: $6 – $8
Ø HIGH QUALITY: $11 – $15. These can be purchased online cheaper, if you buy in bulk to avoid (or lower) the shipping. And sometimes special offers are made by the manufacturers.
Ø PREMIUM QUALITY: $20 – and above. The only filter with which I am personally familiar in this category is the ACdelco Ultraguard. But it does not fit the RDX, only a few Corvette models. There are a number of other filters available in this price category, but I really do not know anything about them.
Finally, I consider it better to use a medium quality (not cheap) filter with a magnet, rather than a high quality or premium filter without a magnet. Remember that a magnet is going to capture magnetic particles of ALL sizes that even an expensive filter will miss.
And a magnet operates even during filter by-pass mode. No oil filter is filtering when the by-pass valve is open, due to cold engine oil at startup, or during high RPM engine operation. Please make your own filter choice.
IF YOU DO NOT CHANGE YOUR OWN OIL, YOU CAN STILL USE MAGNETS WITH THE OIL FILTER:
For internal magnets, you can purchase your own oil filter and place magnets inside, then give the oil filter to the shop (dealer or other) for installation. I have done this. I personally would not use an Acura OEM or cheap aftermarket oil filter on my RDX, so I always purchase my own filter.
For external magnets, you can have the oil-change shop remove the magnet from the old filter and give it back to you, or install directly on the new filter. Just remember to ask, or a quick-lube shop will throw out your expensive magnet with the old filter.
Do not remove the external magnet from your filter before driving to the oil change place. All of the magnetic particles being held against the inside of the filter will be immediately released back into the oil system in one huge ‘blob’.
You can also take the external magnet back home with you from the oil-change shop, and install it yourself on the new filter that was installed. Somewhat inconvenient, but not as much as doing the actual oil change yourself.
---EOF
09-28-2012, 02:13 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I purchased my own RDX engine magnetic drain plug from:
http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/metric.htm
As you can see in my pictures the amount of epoxy on the RDX plug is minimal. But I also purchased 3 other drain plugs for my 1998 Chevy, from the same place, and all three had a significant amount of 'glue' around the magnet, as shown in my posted picture of the BMW plug. I do not know if this is really a problem, but I did decide not to use any of those three plugs.
There are literally hundreds of places to purchase an RDX magnetic drain plug. If you do purchase a drain plug that you like, and it is not from the link above, I would be interested where you purchase from, as I would still like to get a drain plug for my Chevy.
I will also note that I think that magnet(s) in the oil filter are much more efficient, than an engine drain plug magnet.
Last edited by dcmodels; 09-28-2012 at 02:18 AM.
09-28-2012, 02:55 AM
#5
great thinking i just about to do a wright up on oil filters & then i saw this
what do you thinking about K-TUNED reuseable filters?
http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Bill...lter_p_40.html
what do you thinking about K-TUNED reuseable filters?
http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Bill...lter_p_40.html
02-23-2013, 09:28 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
CORRECTION to Post #2, Oil Change Interval
Because I misread my own notes, in Post #2 the stated OCI (oil change interval) of 751 miles was incorrect. And then I incorrectly copied the wrong OCI into all of the posted pictures.
The correct OCI was 2081 miles – the MID reading was 60%. That is, the MID was reset at 24,925 miles to 100%, the oil was changed again at 27,006 when the MID read 60%, for an OCI of 2081 miles.
And this will be more obvious when my next post shows the results of an OCI of 1443 miles, which shows less ‘mud’ on the magnet, than in the following picture.
PICTURE: oil filter bar magnets
----eof
Because I misread my own notes, in Post #2 the stated OCI (oil change interval) of 751 miles was incorrect. And then I incorrectly copied the wrong OCI into all of the posted pictures.
The correct OCI was 2081 miles – the MID reading was 60%. That is, the MID was reset at 24,925 miles to 100%, the oil was changed again at 27,006 when the MID read 60%, for an OCI of 2081 miles.
And this will be more obvious when my next post shows the results of an OCI of 1443 miles, which shows less ‘mud’ on the magnet, than in the following picture.
PICTURE: oil filter bar magnets
----eof
02-24-2013, 07:28 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
ENGINE Oil MAGNETS UPDATE-1
02 Sep 2012 OCI: 1,443miles, 27,006 to 28,449 miles with filter magnets, MOBIL FILTER
06 Jun 2012 OCI: 2,081miles, 24,925 to 27,006 miles with filter magnets, K&N FILTER
12 Apr 2012 OCI: 0,751miles, 24,174 to 24,925 miles WITHOUT filter magnets, K&N FILTER
The 02 Sep oil change interval produced significantly *less* material on the magnets, than the 06 June OCI just before. I am uncertain why. Perhaps because the 02 Sep OCI was shorter, or partly because the oldest 12 Apr OCI did not use oil filter magnets, allowing some particles to build-up inside the engine. Remember that when the engine oil is changed in the RDX, that one quart of oil remains inside the engine. Only five (5) of a total of six (6) quarts can be drained.
Another possibility is the different oil filters used. An additional report will be given at the next OCI.
**************
One of the common arguments that I read, against the use of oil magnets, is that the oil filter will remove any particles large enough to cause a problem. Really?
The general argument, as I understand it, seems to be that since an oil-filter removes particles larger than 40 microns, anything smaller must not be harmful. But does the oil-filter really remove all of those larger particles? Here are some particles found on the end of the engine oil drain-plug magnet in my own RDX.
Those whiskers are clearly larger than 40 microns, since 40 microns is about the smallest size that the human eye can see without magnification. And yes, I could easily see those whiskers. I only need glasses for driving
A human hair is typically 80-100 microns in diameter.
PICTURE of PARTICLES NOT REMOVED BY THE OIL FILTER:
The oil filter used for the pictures in this post, was a Mobil-1 110 model filter. Mobil states that the M1-301 filter is rated by the manufacturer (Mobil) at 99.6% at 25microns, in data on their web site, dated July 2007. But the M1-301 oil filter is 2-3 times the size of the M1-110. A larger filter can more easily filter at a higher efficiency than a ‘tiny’ filter like the M1-110, without restricting oil flow.
The M1-110 current filter-packaging rates this filter at 99.9% efficiency, but no micron size is given. THEREFORE, THE M1-110 filter EFFICIENCY RATING IS MEANINGLESS.
The Purolator oil filters specific for the RDX, both the Classic and the Pure-1 filters, are rated on the manufacturer’s packaging, at 40 microns.
NOTE: the RDX oil was changed, and a new filter was installed, at 27,006 miles, when the MID was reading 60%. Then the drain plug and filter magnets shown in the pictures below, were removed at another oil change at 28,449 miles, when the MID was reading 20%. That is an oil change interval of 1,443 miles.
PICTURE: whiskers on RDX drain plug
WHY DIDN’T THE OIL FILTER REMOVE THE METAL PARTICLES on the END OF THE DRAIN PLUG MAGNET?
Maybe the particles fell to the bottom of the engine oil pan, and were captured by the drain plug magnet, before being sucked up by the oil pump and sent to the oil filter? That would be an argument in favor of using a drain plug magnet, to prevent some particles from being ‘ground-up’ by the oil pump, causing pump gear-wear.
An oil filter does not function (filter) during by-pass mode. That is why it is called by-pass mode. Immediately after a cold-start at below freezing temperatures, the oil filter operates in by-pass mode. During full throttle engine operation, and some other high-load engine conditions, the oil filter operates in by-pass model.
During by-pass mode, the filter does not remove anything. But magnets in the oil pan and in the oil-filter still can remove any magnetic particles of any size, during filter by-pass mode.
Also, during by-pass mode, oil flows around the outside of the oil filtering medium, potentially washing any previously filtered particles off the outside of the filter-medium and back into the oil flow. But a magnet inside the oil filter will still remove any magnetic particles, even in by-pass model.
Please look at the diagram-picture in my previous post, showing the OIL FILTER MAGNET POSITIONS and the BLUE arrow showing the oil flow.
REFERENCE DATA PICTURES OF MAGNETS FROM AN RDX:
The following pictures were taken to be used by myself as a reference/ comparison for future oil changes. And also as a comparison against the pictures in my previous post. I wanted to know if the amount of material collected by the magnets is linear over time, or if it significantly increases based on the OCI, or the total number of miles on the engine.
OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG MAGNET:
PICTURE: RDX drain plug
What appears to be metallic golden particles on the end of that magnet, is actually oil. It is the black stuff that is the metallic swarf (particles) collected. The oil looks so shiny because it has been directly point-lighted in order to get my camera to focus on the end of the magnet. And I had to take about 40 pictures before I got a couple of ones in focus. The stuff around the bottom of the magnet cylinder is just pooled oil. Because the poles of the magnet are at the ends, all particles collect on the magnet tip, with a very small number on the sides.
Note that the whiskers shown in the picture at the beginning of this post, are not seen in the picture just above. That is because they are so small and light, that they are held ‘down’ against the magnet by the other particles and oil. Only after wiping off the magnet with a paper towel, were the larger particles seen.
The magnet is so strong, that it was necessary to use strong 3M masking tape, to remove those whiskers. And you want to remove all particles, so that you can see what is collected at the next OCI.
PICTURE: RDX drain plug
Again, the golden looking stuff on the magnet is just oil. The oil around the bottom of the magnet looks black because it does look black when it drained from the engine. Only when brightly lighted on the magnet, or wiped onto a paper towel, does the oil look yellow/ gold.
PICTURE: RDX drain plug
The YELLOW is oil, the BLACK is magnetic metal particles (like sludge).
USED OIL FILTER MAGNETS:
Two bar magnets were also used inside the oil filter, attached to the center core, during this same oil change interval. Each magnet is about 15mm long. Here are some pictures after the same OCI as indicated above for the drain plug. The end of the magnet in the left side of the picture, has been wiped “clean” to show the depth of the metal particles collected on the surface of the magnets.
PICTURE: RDX filter magnet
Note the ‘whiskers’ in the following picture, which are larger than the 40-micron size that the Mobil 110 oil filter *should* have removed. There are obvious whiskers all around the edges (corners) of both magnets. Whiskers are more obvious on the edges, because the magnetic field causes them to stand away from the magnet. Whiskers on the flat surface of the magnet, are simply laying flat, and are not visible under that layer of ‘mud’. Remember, that *mud* is really a collection of 100% *metal* particles.
Those whiskers on the magnets, are large enough that they should have been filtered (removed) by the filtering material in the M1-110 oil filter. Clearly, they were not. Remember, unless the oil filter is operating in by-pass mode, the oil has to pass through the filtering material, before it passes by the magnets, which are installed inside the core of the oil filter.
PICTURE: RDX filter magnet
WHY DO I CHANGE THE RDX ENGINE OIL SO OFTEN?
The MID (maintenance indicator display) is not perfect.
This RDX is normally driven on very short trips, so that the engine oil never reaches normal temperature. With such short trips, the amount of water/ moisture that builds up inside the engine is enough to cause damage. I am simply not willing to wait for the MID at 5-6 months to require an oil change.
Remember, while the MID has a good algorithm for tracking engine use, it does not and cannot track calendar time. That is why the Owner’s Manual requires an oil change every 1-year, if the MID has not requested one before that time.
To better understand the problem, consider this extreme example. Suppose that at the beginning of the year, that the engine oil is changed, and then the RDX is driven for exactly one mile, without any idling to warm up the engine and oil. Then the RDX is parked for one year. At the end of the year, the engine oil is changed again, per the Owner’s Manual.
Is there anyone who doubts that engine damage will occur, under this scenario? And yet this would be OK according to the vehicle MID for oil change intervals. For those who think that this type of treatment of the engine is OK, then read your RDX owner manual, in the section VEHICLE STORAGE. Here is a partial quote from that section, my emphasis added:
If you need to park your vehicle for an extended period (more than 1 month), there are several things you should do ...
Ø If possible, periodically run the engine until it reaches full operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle on and off twice). Preferably, do this once a month.
So if your vehicle is normally driven only on very short trips, and the engine never reaches normal operating temperature, and you are waiting for the MID to tell you when to change your oil, the engine is being damaged. Moisture builds up inside the engine, and needs to be evaporated out, by driving the vehicle for 30 minutes once a week, without stopping. Otherwise, moisture will cause a buildup of acid in the engine oil, which can damage seals, bearings, etc.
HOW OFTEN DO I CHANGE THE RDX ENGINE OIL?
I change engine oil, whenever one of the following occurs first:
Ø At a MID reading of 60% and 20%, or
Ø At 2,000 miles, or
Ø Every 3-months
Why? In typical operation for this RDX, the MID reads 100% --> 20% every 3,500 miles. And that occurs about every 4 or 5-months. So, the oil change intervals given above, are not that much shorter than what the MID is reporting.
The real problem is that this RDX is often driven in a single day, *only* on eight (8) one-mile trips, with a delay of 1-2 hours between each trip. That would be four round trips from home to: grocery store, exercise gym, CostCo, and finally a trip to K-mart pharmacy (which is actually less than 1-mile away). And yes, there are lots of other places where this RDX is driven, that are a short distance away, less than 5-miles. Unfortunately, the owner does not understand the concept of linking several short trips, into one longer trip, to minimize engine cold starts, and to keep the engine oil warm(er).
For example, when the neighbor is driven to the grocery mart, the RDX backs out of our garage, drives 20 feet, and waits with the RDX engine idling for 10 minutes while the next-door neighbor finishes dressing and walks out to the car. Sorry, but no, the neighbor does not want to walk in the cold to our own garage, before the car engine is started.
While waiting for the neighbor, the seat heater and the HVAC heater is running on high. And the DW keeps asking me why the RDX battery is always low, and why the battery charger must be connected constantly. And am I really certain there isn’t something wrong with the alternator? There isn’t.
Since the RDX engine never warms up, condensate (moisture/ actual water) collects inside the engine oil pan and the exhaust system. I do not expect the exhaust system to last very long. As for the engine, I am doing my best to extend its life, by changing the oil at reduced intervals, and removing as much metal wear particles as possible, using magnets.
----eof
02 Sep 2012 OCI: 1,443miles, 27,006 to 28,449 miles with filter magnets, MOBIL FILTER
06 Jun 2012 OCI: 2,081miles, 24,925 to 27,006 miles with filter magnets, K&N FILTER
12 Apr 2012 OCI: 0,751miles, 24,174 to 24,925 miles WITHOUT filter magnets, K&N FILTER
The 02 Sep oil change interval produced significantly *less* material on the magnets, than the 06 June OCI just before. I am uncertain why. Perhaps because the 02 Sep OCI was shorter, or partly because the oldest 12 Apr OCI did not use oil filter magnets, allowing some particles to build-up inside the engine. Remember that when the engine oil is changed in the RDX, that one quart of oil remains inside the engine. Only five (5) of a total of six (6) quarts can be drained.
Another possibility is the different oil filters used. An additional report will be given at the next OCI.
**************
One of the common arguments that I read, against the use of oil magnets, is that the oil filter will remove any particles large enough to cause a problem. Really?
The general argument, as I understand it, seems to be that since an oil-filter removes particles larger than 40 microns, anything smaller must not be harmful. But does the oil-filter really remove all of those larger particles? Here are some particles found on the end of the engine oil drain-plug magnet in my own RDX.
Those whiskers are clearly larger than 40 microns, since 40 microns is about the smallest size that the human eye can see without magnification. And yes, I could easily see those whiskers. I only need glasses for driving
A human hair is typically 80-100 microns in diameter.
PICTURE of PARTICLES NOT REMOVED BY THE OIL FILTER:
The oil filter used for the pictures in this post, was a Mobil-1 110 model filter. Mobil states that the M1-301 filter is rated by the manufacturer (Mobil) at 99.6% at 25microns, in data on their web site, dated July 2007. But the M1-301 oil filter is 2-3 times the size of the M1-110. A larger filter can more easily filter at a higher efficiency than a ‘tiny’ filter like the M1-110, without restricting oil flow.
The M1-110 current filter-packaging rates this filter at 99.9% efficiency, but no micron size is given. THEREFORE, THE M1-110 filter EFFICIENCY RATING IS MEANINGLESS.
The Purolator oil filters specific for the RDX, both the Classic and the Pure-1 filters, are rated on the manufacturer’s packaging, at 40 microns.
NOTE: the RDX oil was changed, and a new filter was installed, at 27,006 miles, when the MID was reading 60%. Then the drain plug and filter magnets shown in the pictures below, were removed at another oil change at 28,449 miles, when the MID was reading 20%. That is an oil change interval of 1,443 miles.
PICTURE: whiskers on RDX drain plug
WHY DIDN’T THE OIL FILTER REMOVE THE METAL PARTICLES on the END OF THE DRAIN PLUG MAGNET?
Maybe the particles fell to the bottom of the engine oil pan, and were captured by the drain plug magnet, before being sucked up by the oil pump and sent to the oil filter? That would be an argument in favor of using a drain plug magnet, to prevent some particles from being ‘ground-up’ by the oil pump, causing pump gear-wear.
An oil filter does not function (filter) during by-pass mode. That is why it is called by-pass mode. Immediately after a cold-start at below freezing temperatures, the oil filter operates in by-pass mode. During full throttle engine operation, and some other high-load engine conditions, the oil filter operates in by-pass model.
During by-pass mode, the filter does not remove anything. But magnets in the oil pan and in the oil-filter still can remove any magnetic particles of any size, during filter by-pass mode.
Also, during by-pass mode, oil flows around the outside of the oil filtering medium, potentially washing any previously filtered particles off the outside of the filter-medium and back into the oil flow. But a magnet inside the oil filter will still remove any magnetic particles, even in by-pass model.
Please look at the diagram-picture in my previous post, showing the OIL FILTER MAGNET POSITIONS and the BLUE arrow showing the oil flow.
REFERENCE DATA PICTURES OF MAGNETS FROM AN RDX:
The following pictures were taken to be used by myself as a reference/ comparison for future oil changes. And also as a comparison against the pictures in my previous post. I wanted to know if the amount of material collected by the magnets is linear over time, or if it significantly increases based on the OCI, or the total number of miles on the engine.
OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG MAGNET:
PICTURE: RDX drain plug
What appears to be metallic golden particles on the end of that magnet, is actually oil. It is the black stuff that is the metallic swarf (particles) collected. The oil looks so shiny because it has been directly point-lighted in order to get my camera to focus on the end of the magnet. And I had to take about 40 pictures before I got a couple of ones in focus. The stuff around the bottom of the magnet cylinder is just pooled oil. Because the poles of the magnet are at the ends, all particles collect on the magnet tip, with a very small number on the sides.
Note that the whiskers shown in the picture at the beginning of this post, are not seen in the picture just above. That is because they are so small and light, that they are held ‘down’ against the magnet by the other particles and oil. Only after wiping off the magnet with a paper towel, were the larger particles seen.
The magnet is so strong, that it was necessary to use strong 3M masking tape, to remove those whiskers. And you want to remove all particles, so that you can see what is collected at the next OCI.
PICTURE: RDX drain plug
Again, the golden looking stuff on the magnet is just oil. The oil around the bottom of the magnet looks black because it does look black when it drained from the engine. Only when brightly lighted on the magnet, or wiped onto a paper towel, does the oil look yellow/ gold.
PICTURE: RDX drain plug
The YELLOW is oil, the BLACK is magnetic metal particles (like sludge).
USED OIL FILTER MAGNETS:
Two bar magnets were also used inside the oil filter, attached to the center core, during this same oil change interval. Each magnet is about 15mm long. Here are some pictures after the same OCI as indicated above for the drain plug. The end of the magnet in the left side of the picture, has been wiped “clean” to show the depth of the metal particles collected on the surface of the magnets.
PICTURE: RDX filter magnet
Note the ‘whiskers’ in the following picture, which are larger than the 40-micron size that the Mobil 110 oil filter *should* have removed. There are obvious whiskers all around the edges (corners) of both magnets. Whiskers are more obvious on the edges, because the magnetic field causes them to stand away from the magnet. Whiskers on the flat surface of the magnet, are simply laying flat, and are not visible under that layer of ‘mud’. Remember, that *mud* is really a collection of 100% *metal* particles.
Those whiskers on the magnets, are large enough that they should have been filtered (removed) by the filtering material in the M1-110 oil filter. Clearly, they were not. Remember, unless the oil filter is operating in by-pass mode, the oil has to pass through the filtering material, before it passes by the magnets, which are installed inside the core of the oil filter.
PICTURE: RDX filter magnet
WHY DO I CHANGE THE RDX ENGINE OIL SO OFTEN?
The MID (maintenance indicator display) is not perfect.
This RDX is normally driven on very short trips, so that the engine oil never reaches normal temperature. With such short trips, the amount of water/ moisture that builds up inside the engine is enough to cause damage. I am simply not willing to wait for the MID at 5-6 months to require an oil change.
Remember, while the MID has a good algorithm for tracking engine use, it does not and cannot track calendar time. That is why the Owner’s Manual requires an oil change every 1-year, if the MID has not requested one before that time.
To better understand the problem, consider this extreme example. Suppose that at the beginning of the year, that the engine oil is changed, and then the RDX is driven for exactly one mile, without any idling to warm up the engine and oil. Then the RDX is parked for one year. At the end of the year, the engine oil is changed again, per the Owner’s Manual.
Is there anyone who doubts that engine damage will occur, under this scenario? And yet this would be OK according to the vehicle MID for oil change intervals. For those who think that this type of treatment of the engine is OK, then read your RDX owner manual, in the section VEHICLE STORAGE. Here is a partial quote from that section, my emphasis added:
If you need to park your vehicle for an extended period (more than 1 month), there are several things you should do ...
Ø If possible, periodically run the engine until it reaches full operating temperature (the cooling fans cycle on and off twice). Preferably, do this once a month.
So if your vehicle is normally driven only on very short trips, and the engine never reaches normal operating temperature, and you are waiting for the MID to tell you when to change your oil, the engine is being damaged. Moisture builds up inside the engine, and needs to be evaporated out, by driving the vehicle for 30 minutes once a week, without stopping. Otherwise, moisture will cause a buildup of acid in the engine oil, which can damage seals, bearings, etc.
HOW OFTEN DO I CHANGE THE RDX ENGINE OIL?
I change engine oil, whenever one of the following occurs first:
Ø At a MID reading of 60% and 20%, or
Ø At 2,000 miles, or
Ø Every 3-months
Why? In typical operation for this RDX, the MID reads 100% --> 20% every 3,500 miles. And that occurs about every 4 or 5-months. So, the oil change intervals given above, are not that much shorter than what the MID is reporting.
The real problem is that this RDX is often driven in a single day, *only* on eight (8) one-mile trips, with a delay of 1-2 hours between each trip. That would be four round trips from home to: grocery store, exercise gym, CostCo, and finally a trip to K-mart pharmacy (which is actually less than 1-mile away). And yes, there are lots of other places where this RDX is driven, that are a short distance away, less than 5-miles. Unfortunately, the owner does not understand the concept of linking several short trips, into one longer trip, to minimize engine cold starts, and to keep the engine oil warm(er).
For example, when the neighbor is driven to the grocery mart, the RDX backs out of our garage, drives 20 feet, and waits with the RDX engine idling for 10 minutes while the next-door neighbor finishes dressing and walks out to the car. Sorry, but no, the neighbor does not want to walk in the cold to our own garage, before the car engine is started.
While waiting for the neighbor, the seat heater and the HVAC heater is running on high. And the DW keeps asking me why the RDX battery is always low, and why the battery charger must be connected constantly. And am I really certain there isn’t something wrong with the alternator? There isn’t.
Since the RDX engine never warms up, condensate (moisture/ actual water) collects inside the engine oil pan and the exhaust system. I do not expect the exhaust system to last very long. As for the engine, I am doing my best to extend its life, by changing the oil at reduced intervals, and removing as much metal wear particles as possible, using magnets.
----eof
Trending Topics
12-24-2013, 06:44 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
A new present for my 2009 RDX, and I needed an hour time-out from the holidays, so ...
TRANSFER CASE Oil MAGNETS
I finally found a magnetic drain plug for the front transfer case, of the type that I wanted. The transfer case neodymium magnet is a bit larger in diameter, than the ceramic magnets in the transmission and rear differential drain plugs. But the magnetic pull of the transfer case magnet is over 10-times as strong.
Ø Low profile magnet: there is no physical obstruction above the drain plug, but I did not want anything (magnet) projecting into, and disturbing, the oil flow above the drain plug.
Ø Very large magnet: the drain plug projects straight up, well into the transfer case. So the magnet has no opportunity to attract any particles which fall to the bottom of the transfer case – because the magnet is well above the floor of the case.
Ø Very strong magnet: I purchased a neodymium magnet. The transfer case is very small, holding only 1/2 quart of oil. There are very large hypoid gears inside the case. When the car is moving, the inside of the transfer case must be a veritable maelstrom of oil and oil-mist. Only the very strongest magnet can pull particles from that environment.
DRAIN PLUG SIZES:
14mm x 1.5 ENGINE
18mm x 1.5 TRANSMISSION/ REAR DIFFERENTIAL
20mm x 1.5 TRANSFER CASE
Now I need to drill the new drain plug for safety wire. After it has been installed for at least 10K miles, I will report back with its performance.
---eof
TRANSFER CASE Oil MAGNETS
I finally found a magnetic drain plug for the front transfer case, of the type that I wanted. The transfer case neodymium magnet is a bit larger in diameter, than the ceramic magnets in the transmission and rear differential drain plugs. But the magnetic pull of the transfer case magnet is over 10-times as strong.
Ø Low profile magnet: there is no physical obstruction above the drain plug, but I did not want anything (magnet) projecting into, and disturbing, the oil flow above the drain plug.
Ø Very large magnet: the drain plug projects straight up, well into the transfer case. So the magnet has no opportunity to attract any particles which fall to the bottom of the transfer case – because the magnet is well above the floor of the case.
Ø Very strong magnet: I purchased a neodymium magnet. The transfer case is very small, holding only 1/2 quart of oil. There are very large hypoid gears inside the case. When the car is moving, the inside of the transfer case must be a veritable maelstrom of oil and oil-mist. Only the very strongest magnet can pull particles from that environment.
DRAIN PLUG SIZES:
14mm x 1.5 ENGINE
18mm x 1.5 TRANSMISSION/ REAR DIFFERENTIAL
20mm x 1.5 TRANSFER CASE
Now I need to drill the new drain plug for safety wire. After it has been installed for at least 10K miles, I will report back with its performance.
---eof
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