dcmodels

I put this together for myself, but perhaps others will find it of interest. Included are my notes concerning possible alternate bulb selections, and other ‘stuff’ I found interesting. This is somewhat long, so you may wish to copy/ download, reformat, and print out for use. The actual bulb guide is below: scroll down.

Please consider your fellow drivers when upgrading to brighter bulbs. I especially dislike ‘meeting’ blazing fog/ driving lights in clear weather. I have ‘old’ eyes and the glare is completely unnecessary. Just leave them turned off in good weather – you cannot see them – you are driving.

DISCLAIMER: I think that this guide is complete and correct, but since I have not actually looked at every bulb on my car, there is the possibility of a mistake. Also, this guide is specific to my 2009 RDX. Other years should be the same, but may differ. I am providing this guide because some of the interior bulbs (in particular), were difficult to 'find' in the Acura parts lists. In fact, I had to determine a couple of bulbs for myself, as the usually helpful parts counter at my dealer was unable to find them for me.

All data in the replacement listing below is taken from the different manufacturer’s web sites and from actual packaging. If there seem to be inconsistencies, it is still what the manufacturer has published – look it up for yourself if in doubt.

I have listed a few optional bulbs, as for example, I like a brighter than standard Backup Light. In no way am I recommending a particular brand or bulb number or wattage, etc. And if you want to replace all of your bulbs with LEDs, then having the standard bulb numbers is necessary to know what to buy (in an LED bulb).

Just because an OPTIONAL BULB is listed, does not mean that it is recommended or a good idea. For optional bulbs that require modification(s), the required modification information is available online – no need to (re)post it here. Google is your friend. Some of the suggested options are given simply to indicate what is possible.

I have used the Sylvania online bulb replacement guide as a starting point, listing their bulb numbers (mostly), because:

Ø it is the most complete guide that I have found online (for my particular car).

Ø Sylvania has the largest offering of LL (long life) bulbs that are locally available (to me).

Ø Sylvania brand is carried in my local auto parts stores, K-Mart, Wal-Mart, etc. I have no relationship with Sylvania or any other brand.

However, I do suggest considering the WAGNER brand, found at some NAPA stores. Their LL (long life) signal bulbs are built with heavy-duty reinforced filaments. Compare the filament design against other brands. This brand was OEM in my 1998 Chevy 4x4 S-10. The reinforced filaments will take more shock abuse from off-road driving and city pot-holes. A hot filament (burning bulb) is more susceptible to failure (from shock) than a cold filament.

NOTE: the Sylvania web site will give information regarding the CP (candle power) or MSCD, lumens, voltage/ watts, estimated life-hours, and other information for (most) Sylvania bulbs. Technical information, especially regarding life-time hours for other brands is difficult or impossible to come by.

NOTE ON USING BRIGHTER REPLACEMENT BULBS:brighter-than-standard bulbs, same watts as the standard bulb, have a shorter life than the standard bulb. And they cost more. Sometimes the life may be only 1/4 that of a standard bulb, only 30% brighter, yet cost twice as much.

Also note that Sylvania SilverStar bulbs, have the same lumens rating as their standard bulbs, no matter how much “brighter” the advertising says. Only the Kelvin color rating differs, for the same type of bulb. This applies to most brands – I am not just picking on Sylvania. Also, any bulb which is DOT legal, is by definition limited in the amount of lumens it makes, so really no manufacturer can make a (legal) bulb that has more lumens than the DOT standard (for that bulb type).

This seems to me quite a racket by the bulb makers: manufacturer a bulb with 30% brighter (advertised) light, but 1/4 the life, and charge twice the price. This makes the actual bulb cost 8 times the standard bulb (for the same life usage). And if you read the ‘fine-print’, often the brightness comparison is between a NEW higher rated bulb, and an OLD degraded (dim) standard bulb.

This is a quote from the Sylvania web site, and is also printed on most SilverStar packaging: “Claims based on measured comparisons between SilverStar and SilverStar Ultra product families at 100% light output and standard halogen bulbs at 80% light output. Actual performance may vary by product use, vehicle model and usage.”

And what about those bulbs which are rated at dual wattages? such as 65 watt = 115 watts? The short answer is that this is just more BS advertising. Usually, the reference is to a bulb that has a Kelvin whiter color, with the same watt rating as a standard bulb. The whiter color “looks” brighter (to some anyway). The real problem with these bulbs is simply that there is usually no actual real data given, such as lumens output, life-hours, etc. Without actual tech data, it is difficult to tell what you are really buying. About the only thing which is certain, is the bulb will be very expensive and burn out quickly. (my cynicism)

NOTE ON USING HIGHER WATTAGE BULBS: you get more light (lumens), but a higher wattage than a standard bulb, causes increased heat, which can damage the bulb housing or melt the OEM wiring. So check the ratings before you buy. And consider purchasing the upgraded (for heat) wiring/ socket kits that are available, when using higher wattage replacement bulbs. Also, remember that a 100W bulb will draw 8 amps, per bulb. That is enough that you will want to consider rewiring the headlight circuit with a separate relay and heavier wiring. Do you really want your car to burn-to-the-ground?

Finally, sometimes a nominal increase in the wattage of a halogen bulb can significantly increase the light output. For example, an H9 halogen fog light rated 65 watts puts out 50% more light (lumens) than an H11 bulb rated at 55 watts. This is not actually ‘magic’, because the H9 lasts only 1/4 the life of the H11. This is related to bulb design, where the H9 filament is simply burning brighter (and burning-up faster). So you pay the same price (initially) for the two different bulbs, get more light with the H9, but have to buy four H9s to get the same useful life as one H11.

At least in the case of an H9 vs. H11, you are actually getting some significant increase in light (lumens) for your money.

NOTE ON POWER RATINGS: when you are looking for a brighter bulb, the wattage rating of the bulb will indicate (in general) the amount of light (lumens) provided. For example, if the same model bulb is rated by one manufacturer at 21 watts, and by another at 27 watts, then you might assume that the 27 watt bulb will be brighter. BUT ... it is necessary to compare the voltage at which the wattage is rated.

Using water as an analogy, increasing the voltage (water pressure) increases the amps (water flow). Watts = volts x amps. So, different bulbs rated at 12.0v/ 21watts and 13.5v/ 25watts and 14.0v/ 27watts, are exactly the same bulb in reality. In other words, increasing the voltage (of the rating), correspondingly increases the wattage rating, for the same bulb. By the way, Europe rates bulbs at 12v and the USA rates bulbs at 12.8v (generally but not always).

So do not buy a bulb strictly by the wattage rating, look for the voltage at which the wattage rating is given. And if possible, find the actual CP (candle power) or lumens rating to compare bulbs. Again, the rating must be given at the same voltage to be meaningful. Increasing voltage also increases lumens.

NOTE ON LED REPLACEMENT BULBS: LEDs look bright when you LOOK at them, but do not REFLECT/ THROW much light over a distance. A reflector works only when the bulb filament is centered at the focal point of the reflector. There is simply no way to position multiple (clustered) LEDs in a single bulb in one small spot.

The LED is positioned to shine directly forward. This works OK for a tail-light, especially if the housing has been designed for an LED bulb, as is the case for new vehicles.

But the amount of light actually projected by the bulb down-the-road (and to the side), will be less than a normal light. The LED (often multiple LEDs in one bulb), are not properly positioned at the focal center of the reflector built into the bulb housing. So an LED bulb does not work so well for a backup light, no matter how bright it is.

NOTE ON HALOGEN REPLACEMENT BULBS for STANDARD INCANDESCENT BULBS: this is where it seems you get something for free. A Halogen type bulb, rated at the same wattage as a regular incandescent bulb, will always be brighter (more light/ lumens). BUT … it will run hotter. This is not normally a problem, unless you also increase the wattage of the bulb at the same time. For example, replacing a 25 watt incandescent bulb with a 50 watt halogen is asking for something to ‘catch-fire’ and melt things. This will be especially true if the light housing is small and plastic, such as a backup light.

So this is a case where you can use a halogen bulb in place of a regular incandescent bulb, draw the same power (watts), and get increased light. Also, the halogen bulb will degrade (dim) less over time, and generally last longer, But it costs more upfront in $$.

NOTE ON COLORED REPLACEMENT BULBS: any color on a bulb reduces the amount of actual light (lumens), since the color acts as a filter. This is true no matter whether the glass itself is colored, or a coating is applied to the glass. If you have purchased a colored bulb because you like the color, then you can stop reading. No matter how many lumens are being produced by a bulb, part of the lumens are being BLOCKED by the colored filter. Any statement to the contrary is simply marketing jabber (nicest way I can say it).

Because most bulbs produce much more light (lumens) toward the yellow end vs. the blue end of the light spectrum, a yellow or amber colored bulb will block less (total) lumens than a blue colored bulb. Sounds backward, but the yellow filter blocks blue (not yellow), and vice versa. If you want a ‘whiter’ light, by purchasing a colored bulb, then consider the following:

Ø Make sure that the ‘blue’ bulb that you have purchased has the correct Kelvin temperature/ color range, so that the bulb will throw white and not blue light. Check the Kelvin specification.

Ø Increase the light (lumens) available, to compensate for the light (lumens) blocked by the filter, by either replacing an incandescent bulb with a halogen one (of the same wattage), or by replacing a halogen bulb with one of higher wattage, or sometimes an LED replacement will work (depending upon the application). Check the lumens specification, to match your requirement.

Ø If the replacement bulb has a higher wattage, then make certain the extra heat is not going to melt your headlight plastic cover or bulb housing, or melt the wiring/ plug, etc. Check the watts and amperes specification.

Ø Alas, without any data provided by the bulb maker, there is no way to tell just how many lumens will be lost due to the filter (coating/ color) on the bulb. Remember, any color other than perfectly clear will reduce the total light (lumens) from the bulb.

NOTE ON LONG LIFE REPLACEMENT BULBS: without getting technical, a long life bulb reflects less light than the same standard bulb, because the reflector in a bulb’s housing works best with a point source of light. That basically means that the smaller the bulb filament (closer to a point), the better that the reflector can work. This is important when considering a headlight or backup light replacement, since you really do not want to reduce the amount of light on the road. A small loss of reflected light is less important for marker and signal or interior lights. When looking for a replacement bulb of the same wattage as the standard bulb, consider the following.

Ø Long life bulbs reflect less light (in the same housing) than a standard bulb, because the filament is optimized for life-hours and not for amount of light reflected. Understand that the amount of light (lumens) produced by the long life bulb may be exactly the same as the standard bulb, BUT the amount of light REFLECTED by the bulb housing will be LESS (for a long file bulb). Also, an LL bulb will last long enough before failure, that it may loose 30-40% of its original brightness. ALL bulbs dim over the life of the bulb.

NOTE: a long life bulb will generally (but not always) be built with stronger elements, which may be helpful for withstanding road shock.

Ø Standard bulbs are designed to reflect light as an optimal compromise between power draw (wattage) and life-hours.

Ø Brighter bulbs of the same wattage (and type) as a standard bulb are able to reflect more light, by altering the filament design. This also means that the brighter bulb will have a shorter life (often a lot shorter) than a standard bulb of the same wattage. Remember that this does not apply (shorter life), when replacing a bulb with a different type, such as replacing an incandescent type light with a halogen type of the same wattage (see section above on Halogen Replacement bulbs).

NOTE on DATA CONVERSIONS: the following are not exactly interchangeable as given, but close enough for government work. You can do any desired conversions, using the following:
1 candlepower (USA) = 12.57 lumens (metric)
MSCD (mean spherical candela) where (candela = candlepower)
MSCD is sometimes given as MSCP or just CP, where (CP = candlepower)
Watts = Volts x Amps
Kelvin (K) = color of light: 4100K is ‘white’, lower is yellow, higher is blue (more or less)
__________________________________________________ __



NOTE: bulb prices below are merely a ‘range’, meant to give some idea of differences between brands or types. The only price that matters is the one you actually pay, whether you buy in person or online.

FRONT EXTERIOR LIGHTS
Low beam headlamp (2) (Acura 33116-SL0-003, D2S, diagram: HEADLIGHT, #13)
HID-D2S 12.8v (85v), 35w, 4100 Kelvin, 3200 lumens, > 2500 rated hours
(after 2000 hours of use or 5 years: 5000 Kelvin, 2240 lumens), about $100/ each
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=973

NOTE: Follow the 5-minute rule. If you must power on the system, let it run for at least 5 minutes. This ensures that the salts [inside the glass bulb] reach their optimal operating temperature. Short usage times will severely decrease the useful life of the salts, meaning [Kelvin] colorshift will occur much more quickly. If you turn the system off, keep it powered down for at least 5 minutes so the salts can properly return to a powder. Also, do not start or stop the engine with the HID system powered ON.

Never run the HIDs for more than 3 hours at a time. After 3 hours, let the system stay powered off for 5 minutes or more before you turn it on again. This may make nighttime road trips more tricky, but it will give you a chance to pull over and rest.


9005 OPTIONAL: convert a 9005 to fit a 9006 low beam bulb position. Obviously, this will not work for the RDX, since the low beam does not use a halogen 9006 bulb. But many early Hondas and other vehicles use a 9006. An inexpensive standard 9005 in the low beam position gains 70% light (700 lumens) over a 9006 bulb. Requires modification of the 9005 bulb base/ plug, and sealing gasket.

High beam headlamp (2) – DRLs (Acura 33115-S84-A01, HB3, 12v/60w, diagram: HEADLIGHT, #12)
9005 Sylvania standard: 1700 +/- 15% lumens, 12.8v/ 65 watts, 3250 Kelvin, 320 rated hours
9005SU SilverStar ULTRA: (up to 50% brighter), 1700 lumens, 12v/ 70 watts, 4100 Kelvin, 80 rated hours
9005ST SilverStar: (up to 35% brighter), 1700 lumens, 12.8v/ 65 watts, 4000 Kelvin, 80 rated hours
9005EB EcoBright - Your Environmental Choice. Save Energy - Save Money. Up to 25% brighter light. CO2 reduced 9 to 21%. Gas savings $2 to $19.
9005XV XtraVision: The brighter light for upgraded performance. Up to 30% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility. 3200K
9005CB Cool Blue: The whiter light for style. Up to 25% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility. 3800K

9005 GE Nighthawk: 1695 lumens, 135CP, 12.8v/ 65 watts, 800 hours
9005LL Wagner HalogenGold (Krypton gas): 1700 lumens, 136CP, 12.8v/ 65 watts, 5.08 amps, 3200K
9005BL Wagner BriteLite (Xenon gas): 2035 lumens, 162CP, 12.8v/ 65 watts, 5.08 amps, 4000K

9011 HIR1 OPTIONAL: 2500 lumens, 12.8v/ 65 watts, 3600 Kelvin, $30/ each, 300 rated hours
2350 lumens, 12.0v/ 60 watts (same bulb, different rating voltage)
(requires simple modification of the 9011 bulb base)
(Toshiba is no longer making these – now made exclusively by Phillips – cost more)

Fog/Driving light (2) (Acura 33165-SAA-003, H11 12v/55w, diagram FOGLIGHT, #01)
H11 Sylvania standard about $10/ each, 550 Average Rated Hours
H11 Nokya Hyper Yellow (12v/ 80w, 2,500K, $60/ pair)
H11 LuminicsBulbs.com - JDM yellow P/N LY-H11F (12v/ 55w, $65/ pair)
H11SU SilverStar Ultra: The brightest and whitest light. Up to 50% brighter, up to 40% more downroad visibility and up to 50% more sideroad visibility, about $20/ each.
H11ST SilverStar: The brighter and whiter light. Up to 35% brighter, up to 30% more downroad visibility and up to 35% more sideroad visibility.
H11XV XtraVision: The brighter light for upgraded performance. Up to 30% brighter light and up to 25% more downroad visibility.

H9 SYLVANIA 65w 2000 +/- 240 lumens (167 mscd) vs. H11 55w 1250 +/- 150 lumens (107 mscd)
(requires modification of the H9 bulb base/ plug) 120 Average Rated Hours for the H9

NOTE: if you want yellow bulbs, but do not want to pay the high prices for them, for generally lower quality, plus reduced life-hours, then consider painting the lens of the housing (yellow) instead. Or use yellow film, which will also protect against road hazards/ breakage. To paint, remove the lamp, thoroughly clean the lens, then paint with several wet (but not dripping) coats of DupliColor brand Metalized Anodized Yellow aerosol paint. If the lens is separate (not so on an RDX), paint the inside of the lens. Paint to about 2 shades darker than you think you actually want. The amount of light (lumens) blocked by the transparent color will not be great. Then you can use a standard bulb, for which you can readily find wattage and life-hours ratings.

Front sidemarker (2) (Acura 34901-SB0-671, 5w/ 3CP (STANLEY), diagram: HEADLIGHT, #23)
168
168LL

Front turn signal/ Parking light (2) (Acura 33303-SD4-671, 12v/ 2CP, diagram: HEADLIGHT, #21)
1157A
1157ALL
1157ALL Stealth Bulb (12.8v/ 2.1amp), invisible when OFF (not yellow), $27/ pair

Side turn signal, SIDE-MIRROR housing (2)
xxxx (Acura 34300-STK-A01, LED with housing, system diagram: MIRROR, #01)
xxxx (Acura 34350-STK-A01, LED with housing, system diagram: MIRROR, #02)
(replacement requires removal of mirror glass, then 4 Torqx screws from inside mirror housing)

REAR EXTERIOR LIGHTS
Rear turn signal (2) (Acura 33303-SL4-003, 12v/21w, diagram: TAILLIGHT-LICENSE LIGHT, #02)
7440 (a 7443 can be used in a pinch, it just has two filaments and one will not be lit)
7440ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
7440LL

Tail light, LID (2) (Acura 34901-SB0-671, 5w/3CP, diagram: TAILLIGHT-LICENSE LIGHT, #15)
168
168LL

Tail/ Stop light, TAIL (2) (Acura 34906-ST5-003, 12v 21w/5w, diagram: TAILLIGHT-LICENSE LIGHT, #17)
7443
7443ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
7443LL

High mount stop light (1) (Acura 34901-SHJ-A01, 12v/16w (NA USE ALT: 34901-SB3-671), diagram: TAILGATE, #05)
921 12.8v/ 18w, 21.0 mscd, 1000 Average Rated Hours
921ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider.
921LL

893/ 894 OPTIONAL: 12v/ 37.5w, 78.3mscd, 960 lumens, 200 Average Rated Hours
(requires removal of the 893 bulb from its base, then insert bulb tangs into 921 socket)
http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/backup_bulbs.htm

License plate (2) (Acura 34901-SB0-671, 12v/5w/3CP, diagram: TAILLIGHT-LICENSE LIGHT, #15)
168
168LL

Back up light (2) (Acura 33303-SL4-003, 12v/21w (STANLEY), diagram: TAILLIGHT-LICENSE LIGHT, #02)
7440 SYLVANIA standard, 13.5v/ 1.85amp/ 25w, 37 CP, 460 lumens, 300 Average Rated Hours
7440 NOKYA halogen Hyper White (blue glass), 100% brighter, 12v/ 21w rating, about $10/ each.
7440 PIAA XTreme White P/N 19255, 12.8v/ 27w, color 4150k, about $17/ for two.
7440ST SYLVANIA SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. Typical price $10/ for two
7440LL SYLVANIA Long Life: typical price $7/ for two

H8 OPTIONAL: 35w (not the 55w bulb), 730 +/- 110 lumens, 175 Average Rated Hours
(requires modification of the housing mount hole, and replacing the plug w/ H8 type)

Rear sidemarker (2) (Acura 34901-671-671, 12v/5w, diagram: TAILLIGHT-LICENSE LIGHT, #16)
194
194LL

INTERIOR LIGHTS
Map light (2) (Acura 34401-S84-A01, T10 4CP, 12v/6.2w, diagram INTERIOR LIGHT, #06)
2825 OEM (12v 5w printed on the bulb) pry front of cover w/ broken-tip #11 X-acto blade
2825 SYLVANIA 13.5v 5w 4CP/ 300 Average Rated Hours
2825LL SYLVANIA 13.5v 5w 4CP/ 600 Average Rated Hours

194 OPTIONAL: 12v 3.8w 2CP/ 2,500 Average Rated Hours
194LL OPTIONAL: 12v 3.8w 2CP/ 5,000 Average Rated Hours

Dome light (1) (Acura 04110-SWA-305, T10x31, 8W, diagram INTERIOR LIGHT, #03)
DE3022 Festoon type (conical ends)
DE3022LL

Step/ Door light (2) (Acura 33301-S70-003, 12v/3.8w/2CP, diagram WIRE HARNESS(2), #08)
194 (for a brighter light, use a 168 with 3CP, or 2825 with 4CP)
194LL

Floor Console light (1) (Acura 35505-692-003, 14v/1.4w, diagram WIRE HARNESS (2), #09)
74(Acura 34254-S3N-003, Lamp Housing, diagram CONSOLE, #01)
74LL (pry white lamp housing cover from DRIVER side only – pry on passenger side will BREAK it)

Roof Console ambient light (2)
xxxx LEDs (blue) – requires replacement of Console module

Glove Box light (1) (Acura 35505-692-003, 14v/1.4w, diagram WIRE HARNESS (2), #09)
74
74LL

Vanity/ Visor light (2) (Acura 83238-SHJ-X01, 12v/2.0w, diagram ROOF LINING, #06)
xxxx

Shift Lever Selection light (1) (Acura 35505-692-003, 14v/1.4w, diagram WIRE HARNESS (2), #09)
74 (located driver side front corner – bottom of shift lever surround)
74LL

Control SWITCH lights (Acura diagram SWITCH)
HAZARD (1) - Acura 35871-SFA-003 (14v/60ma), #09
R. HEATED SEAT (3) - LEDs, integral with switch
L. HEATED SEAT (3) - LEDs, integral with switch
SUNROOF (1) - Acura 38850-STK-003 (14v/40ma), #08
VSA OFF (1) - Acura 35850-STK-A01 (14v/40ma), #07

Radio/ Audio Switch Panel (non-tech) (7)
xxxx (Acura 39055-STK-A01, 14v/40ma, diagram SWITCH PANEL, #02)

Trunk/Cargo area (1) (Acura 34351-657-921, 12v/5w, Stanley, diagram INTERIOR LIGHT, #05)
168
168LL
__________________________________________________ _____
----eof

InfamousJamous

Nice info on how to remove the bulb covers. This will come in handy when I replace the ugly yellow interior bulbs.

VietNinjaJ30A1

Anyone know how to change the bulb in the overhead sunroof switch?

buMzy

Thanks for the great guide! I've changed almost all of my interior light except for the glove box and center console box. One of my brake lights burnt out so I'm thinking of replacing it with an LED one. I have a quick question. I'm looking at the specs of the LEDS and they have two versions of red.
First one is
Current draw @ 12 volts Unit: MA - 35/115 Luminous Flux - 15/80
Second one
Current draw - 25/165 Luminous Flux - 30/120

Tried using your notes to figure this out but I'm still not sure which one is the correct one for the RDX?

These are the bulbs I am looking at.

Thanks in advance!

VietNinja30A1: Are you referring to the Map Lights? There is a notch towards the windshield side that you can put a screw driver in. The plastic is a bit delicate so be careful when prying. You can scratch/bend it a little as you are trying to pry it out.

dcmodels

CURRENT DRAW is irrelevant - LUMENS only counts.

BRAKE light = STOP light
Tail/ Stop light, TAIL (2) (Acura 34906-ST5-003, 12v 5w/21w
7443

Back up light (2) (Acura 33303-SL4-003, 12v/21w (STANLEY)
7440 SYLVANIA standard, 13.5v/ 1.85amp/ 25w, 37 CP, 460 lumens

A 7443 is the same as a 7440, except that the 7443 has TWO filaments, and the 7440 has only ONE filament. Note that the 7440 at 21W 'shines' at 460 lumens. The brightest bulb that you have listed is only 120 lumens. Will anyone see your brakes??

Tail light, LID (2) (Acura 34901-SB0-671, 5w/3CP
168

At 5W the tail-light portion of the 7443 will 'shine' at about 5W/3CP x 12.57lumens = 38 lumens. The brightest LED that you have listed shines at only 30 lumens as a TAIL-LIGHT only. The 15lumens LED that you have listed will make you invisible (and illegal).

Please re-read my NOTE on LEDs in my original post/ bulb guide. Again. LEDs ARE GENERALLY TOO DIM FOR AUTO USE, unles the car came with them originally, and there are multiple LEDs in each location, and the reflector was designed to use LEDs. In addition, an LED basically only directs light in a linear direct-to-the-rear direction. Not much at all to the side, above or below.

So other than directly behind your car, it is going to be not-visible with LEDs. That is why an LED requires a special reflector, either in the housing or in the 'bulb' housing. And the bulb housing is basically too small to get an efficient reflector to fit.

I could not find a bladed screwdriver small enough to fit into that slot. So I broke the end/tip off a #11 X-acto blade (wear eye protection when doing this). Actually, you need to press upward with the blade-tip, to release the plastic 'hook' on the light cover. Search this forum, as there is another more detailed description on how to do this.

Map light (2) (Acura 34401-S84-A01, T10 4CP, 12v/6.2w
2825 OEM (12v 5w printed on the bulb) pry front of cover w/ broken-tip #11 X-acto blade

buMzy

Thanks for the tips. I ended up getting the LEDs before the reply. I installed them and though it was not brighter then stock, it was about the same. I put them on in the day and viewed it from different angles. Looks about the same to me.

windowlickingood

some led's can be brighter, you just have to do your homework to find the right ones. and i really dont get why its not good to run your hids over 3 hours. never had a problem with running hids over that time period.

modrid81

Thanks for all of the work on this info sheet. It really helped me out, as I just ordered some Nokya Hyper Yellow DRLs and fogs, as well as some LED license plate lights.

Joe Las Vegas

Good info, I was thinking about using 9005 & H11 sylvania st bulbs, but their longevity sucks.
The 9005 GE Nighthawk sounds real good though.

ShaTR

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but does anyone know how to remove the cargo area light? I tried just pulling it out but i feel like i'm going to break it.

Assuming i should be pulling from the side closest to the tailgate. Looked in the manual, but it was no help.

TIA

ShaTR

Update: Got the lens out. Front side of it was glued in for some reason. Broke the seal and it came out with ease.

Picked up one of these

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/330593426633?...633%26_rdc%3D1

Hopefully it will light up the trunk much better than the current 5w incandescent

ShaTR

Follow up: had to cut off 12 of the 24 LED's for it to fit. If anyone is considering doing the same, a 3x4 SMD array works best. LOTS of light and slides right into the diffuser housing. Awesome mod for 2-3 bucks.

FWIW, with 12 5050 SMD led's in there, it looks approx twice as bright as stock setup. Maybe 3x.

JamesRDX

@ShaTR - THANKS FOR YOUR POST! I'm actually looking to do this as its' getting so dark in the winter.

I'm looking for the 3x4 SMD but they're the same price as the 24 LEDs ($4 vs $3). Does it make a difference? Also, how difficult was it to get the cargo light out? Never done any mods on my RDX (I just got it two weeks ago) and I don't have a garage so I'll be doing it on the street! (which is also why I need more light!).

TIA!

ShaTR

Info is all there bro. takes 5 min cost 3 bucks. Do it!

holografique

@dcmodels - fantastic post, and has been a huge help over the past couple of weeks of going through and upgrading all the interior and exterior lighting on my recently purchased 2007 RDX tech. I have a couple more to finish and I plan to post an updated list to this thread with all new parts listings that can easily be purchased all through Amazon. LED lighting has dramatically advanced over the past 10 years since your original post. Lots of options now, much brighter than any incandescent/halogen lighting (contrary to what it was back in 2010) and options that now include built-in resistor/anti-hyperflash options further simplifying the upgrades particularly for turn signal lighting.

I should have a post ready by this weekend.

CSmoney28

Updates 👍🏻

chilly731

Thanks for this. I had a look at your thread and got the LED turn signals and reverse lights for a 2016 RDX, back in November. Installed them and had them for about 2 months now.

Just an update for anyone curious about these two products.

The reverse lights still work fine as far as I'm aware (i check in the reflection of windows when in reverse sometimes).

The turn signals hyperflashed about 7 or 8 times so far, intermittently (so about 4 times a month). About 5-8% of the time, if I put an estimate on the number of times I had my indicators on. I have no resistors on, so those might come in handy, even though they are advertised as not having to use that. Not sure if the cold has any effect (winter in Canada), probably not?

Other than that, pretty satisfied with both. Thanks again.

chilly731

Ah shoot, sorry, not sure how I clicked on the wrong thread before replying, was doing it on my phone. Can't figure out how to delete my reply on this thread. Mods?

CSmoney28

My led turn signals hyper flash all the time I didn’t feel like splicing in resistors and shrink wrapping them.

lumn8

Great Info. Thank you. I have a 2011 RDX Tech/Turbo. are these bulbs the same?

KayDen

Very informative.
Thanks for posting